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There's also the brake-pedal ratio to be considered. IMO, a manual system has a numerical larger (underdash) brake-pedal ratio than a power brake system. I run a 15/16 MC on a ('73 factory) power brakepedal system. 2.75" ø C-body calipers.

But unfortunatly, it's not really a 'parking' brake. It's an emergency brake. A simple backup to the (once) original brake system (which has now been modified by a hobbyist so the emergency brake might be more important then ever now).

Weld a piece of steel rod in/across the race and knock it out. Then file 2 notches in the rotor for the next time

The pedal is firm? Not bottoming out? I think you might be underestimating the function of a correctly sized MC.

I used up a set of Yellow EBCs on my Dart. Daily driven. Plenty of dust, dig into rotors, braking 'bite' is much better. In the end I removed the front residual valve in my brake system as I found the front wheels were tight to turn. After the removal of the valve mileage rose about 1 mpg. This...

Swapped lines front/rear on the MC by any chance? With 12" vacuum on the engine I would do an engine tune-up first. That's lousy vacuum and it's probably struggling to pull the booster for brake-assist.

Next thing you'll find the torsion bars in the way of something and you want coilovers. Next is the steeringbox and you want a limited rack&pinion instead. Then you can't get the leafsprings to work and you want coilovers too... I'm no Mopar purist myself, but IMhO, since you don't seem to want...

Torred, you need to match (go smaller in diameter) the rear brake cylinders to prevent rear-brake bias. It's also possible to limit fluid-pressure to the rear with an adjustable valve (which can always still be done), but it's better to be one step ahead of the game and get 'one-size' smaller...

Nice work. Personally, I think the last thing an A-body needs (for looks) is more wheel offset to the outside. Especially with wider than stock tires, the fender lip comes into play very quickly. Even more so on the later 70+ A bodies. I think I would try to 'rotate' the caliper away a bit from...

You'll also want to tighten that bolt down better that holds everything to the frame.

C-body 11.75" rotors are 1.25" thick. I'm running a pair of '73 Chrysler discs on my daily driven '73 Dart. I've run Hawks Racing pads and EBC Yellow Stuff pads which were I nice improvement. Currently I'm also using the C-body calipers as well but definitly would like to switch to a lighter...

You'll only know if you measure it. If you loosen the nuts of the MC a couple of turns, is the MC 'pushed' off it base a bit? (This would mean a too long pushrod, prob. not your case here). If you can lengthen or adjust the pushrod, you should be able to lengthen it so it barely touches the MC...

Pushrod length is still important. Even more with manual brakes where the pushrod should be locked in place into the MC or else it could fall out and leave you without brakes all together. If you're real sure the MC has been bled properly (no more air appearing) I would open up the MC and have...

Double check the length of the pushrod between booster and MC. If it's say 7/16" short then you might indeed have over 2-3" of play at the pedal. The honking sound (not sure I should be answering this... ) is perhaps coming from the booster which forces the displaced air out somewhere. Most...

Booster connected to full vacuum on carb base?

I think I would either fab bushings that slide tightly (crimp?) over the studs and into the studholes in the rotor, or, I would make internal threaded bushings/colars that thread onto the studs all the way down to the flange with some Loctite so the rotor at least centers itself on the studs...

I drove around for a while with a 1-1/32" MC but while (boosted) braking was 'adequate', I couldn't panic stop the car at all if I wanted too. Now with the 15/16" braking is much better and feels more as it should be. I'm using '73 C-body pin-calipers by the way.

Locked brakes is also usually a too long pushrod between pedal and MC, or booster and MC.

Residual pressure valves are only to keep the shoes and pads near the drum or disc. Drums use a 10lbs valve and discs a 2lbs valve. They shorten brakepedal travel by not having to take up the gap between brake shoe and drum, or discrotor and pads. However I also tend to believe they help in...

Going from stock '73 A-body discs to stock '73 C-body discs narrowed my front wheel track width enough to notice. Not quite sure on the exact amount but I think it was about 5/16" or 3/8" per side.

A cute 11" disc rotor does not match my view of a "Big Brake" conversion.

My '73 Dart has stock disc spindles, late B-body brackets, '73 C-body calipers and '73 11.75" rotors.

Maybe a couple of 1/8" wheelspacers might be all you need to clear the calipers. You can test this by putting 1 or 2 large washers behind the wheels and torque them down, while checking if they still clear the brakes. Once they clear just measure the thickness of the amount of washers you used...

Not knowing the caliper diameters or throw of the brake-pedal, my first guess is that the MC is going to be too large in diameter (1.125").

Do some more searching around. Not everyone has positive results with their kits. Most seemed to be related to mismatched (generic) parts.

The largest Mopar caliper has a 2.75" piston diameter. Not many multi-piston calipers have this kind of combined sq.inch piston-surface (thinking Wilwood). Although I don't know how much surface area the Viper calipers have.

I think you won't like the braking performance with a 1-1/8" MC. I've got 2.75" calipers, 11.75" C-body rotors, Yellowstuff brake pads and a DrDiff 1-1/16" MC on my '73 Dart. 10" x 2.5" rear drums on a narrowed C-body axle. While brake performance is good and very adequate for daily use, it...

Don't see this posted, but have the upper control-arms been removed from the car during the swap? If not, then there's no way the camber/caster alignment can be off that much, UNLESS there are some obvious differences in the new spindles compared to the old ones. Are the spindles both...

It can be a bit time consuming, but also rewarding when you end up with a improved brake system. I entered the adapter measurements from the car into a graphics program and saved this as a dwg-file for the laser or watercutter.

I made my own adapters indeed. Started out by using cardboard as a template, then switched to wood and later to a lasercut steel plate. The adapters pictured here were made for a '64 spindle boltpattern; Here are similar adapters for a '60 spindle boltpattern;