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IMO the engine will act a low CR smogger. I've had an openchambered 383 once (with a mild "Roadrunner/268 dur" cam in it) and it was a turd that liked to ping easily too.

It confirms what I seen from the pics that the casting actually looks way better then what Edelbrock makes these days. They maybe 'copies' of Edelbrocks but they seem greatly improved, just like Edelbrock copied and improved stock Mopar heads. I was very much in doubt in getting a pair of them...

Carter/Edelbrock carbs respond better to throttle movements when a 4-hole spacer is under them. The higher the better.

No reason to buy an old Mopar-grind these days when better and newer developed stuff is out there. As for the OP's cam issues; I suspect some sparkwires are still mixed up, there's a vacuumleak somewhere or the cam is installed way off perhaps.

Do a compression test to see if one cylinder is lacking. Also you could point a lasertemp gun at the same spot on the header tubes on each cylinder to find out which one is running hotter/leaner. How/where is your pcv hooked up?

Install an AFR gauge. Best tool for tuning a carb.

Ported vacuum possibly hides the issue. *Usually* surging is a lack of fuel.

I don't see why you would want 20 years of wear already on the bearings. Just so one can(needs to) run 20W50 oil?

Not very relevant for the topic, but maybe interesting to put down; When I build my LA360, I compared listed weights of the KB107's and stock pistons and the result was interesting. Even more interesting because the PO didn't think the engine would need a balance job with the KB's... listed...

But these days just about every smartphone has accelerometers inside and similar apps available that have rendered these G-tech (-like) devices fairly useless.

With a rich fuelmixture the engine will smell pretty bad and leave a good amount of power on the table. Not even knowing how the timing is set. You guys quote my earlier post but I don't think you both actually read what I typed in there ;) "and your rearwheel dynonumbers don't seem that out...

A stock 4bbl 383 would have had around 325-335 hp as I recall from the factory. Now give it 40 years of wear, a lousy tune-up, a slipping convertor and your rearwheel dynonumbers don't seem that out of line. How about a pic of that "disappointment" under the hood...

Valves start to float when the springs can't control them, or themselves, anymore.

I ment just to rig up a (underhood) cold air intake system. Add some large diameter tubing front the radiator support to the carb. Cutting the hood is an option ofcourse if you like to go that route. Cold/cool air always makes more power. Just look at what modern cars have for intake systems.

Just like he did yes. Not sure what you don't understand here; He installed a cheap $5 airfilter with a $10 China filterhousing, sucking in hot engine bay air.

Deep-6 the open airfilter and go with cold air intake tubing. The open filter element pretty much cancels out the benefits of the Air Gap manifold. Also ditch the solid mounted flex fan for a thermo-clutch with a factory fan with aluminium blades. A fanshroud would take care of any hot idling...

You'll hear about it when you stop posting this...! :) Keep it up. Good stuff!

The factory used steel headgaskets on all the engines they put out...

It's a bypass system. It won't get dirty...