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No difference.

I used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel on the last one I did a decade ago. It worked well. Good luck.

Sure hope the frame rail bolt holes line up with the new one. Been there done that on the wife's '74 Dart Sport. Ended up having to spend some time on a frame rack during what I expected to be a quick K-frame swap.

Last resort once all these ideas have been extinguished, use an air die grinder with a cut off wheel. Cut between the bracket and the control arm as you will be replacing the bushings anyway. Once you cut far enough that you can't use the cutoff wheel without cutting frame or inner fender, use...

Was it a reputable shop that performed the alignment? I set my toe in once on a new front end before I drove it to a shop for an alignment. They adjusted it to 1/2" toe out; I was almost unable to get it home. Needless to say, they never touched another of my vehicles.

Never mind. Reread post and see that they already fit when you put each one in by itself. No ideas here.

It has been years since that car sold, but I believe it was just over an inch on the inside. I had SS springs in the rear so it sat pretty high.

It was 6.5" backspacing, but once again, that was a B-body width axle, I believe from a 69 B-body.

I'm out of town right now, so I can't access my pics, but no need to minitub to run the size tires you mentioned. I ran a 71 Duster with a B-body axle, 3/4" spring relocation kit with 28 X 10.5 X 15 on 10" Welds with no rubs without any tub modifications. With the right backspacing anything is...

You might want to add a bit more info, like what your intended purpose for the vehicle is. For example, street only, street/strip, strip only, road racing, etc...

Well, if you have any of the rectangle tubing left over, and if your gap is .125", you could cut pieces to slip between.

If you're set on doing it that way, you can measure the gap, cut some plate of that thickness and weld it to it prior to sliding it into the rear rail.

Mine fit tight around the outside of the rear frame rails and the last owner on my previous car already had it done before I bought it, so I've never seen that issue, but I've never seen someone trying to weld them inside the rear rails either. Why did you decide to do it that way when it is so...

There is no way I would attempt to trim springs when it is so easy to install wheel spacers, or just a little more difficult to install 3/4" offset kit.

I believe those pieces are welded in. I've never owned a vehicle rusted bad enough where I've had to replace those. Hopefully somebody else can provide some input on this one. Bump for you.

Still difficult to understand without a picture, but here goes. Rear leaf spring hangar is bolted to tail frame with two bolts, using nut plates inside it. Stock shackles are attached to those brackets with two nuts holding them on; one pin through the bracket and the other through the leaf...

The rear spring hangars are bolted to the tail frame rail through the use of nut plates inside it. You'll probably want to post a pic of the area so you can get some better advice, but going by your description, it sounds to me like your tail frame rail is rusted out. This may be the perfect...

They both attach to the brake pedal bracket.

OK, low budget. In that case, here are my recommendations: Stick with leaf spring style rear suspension. Possibly look at SS Springs or some of the monoleaf springs that others will recommend. I believe SS Springs will suit your purpose and you can still easily find them at a reasonable...

Knowing what you have right now for a rear axle would be helpful for determining which would be the most beneficial way for you to go. For example, if you have a 7 1/4, nobody is going to tell you to waste money narrowing that. Assuming you have an 8 3/4, which one, A-body SBP or BBP, B-body...

On Dusters, Demons and Dart Sports you will not need custom wheels or to narrow the axle housing if you purchase a 70 and prior B-body axle; it may be the same on A-body Barracudas as well. As for no dish, that would only be if a later than 70 was used. On my Duster I was able to run 10" wide...

x2

I haven't seen anyone mention it yet, but a tow package usually has an additional trans cooler as well, assuming it's an automatic. If you plan on any towing in the mountains, you may want to consider the transmission, especially with the amount of weight it sounds like you'll be carrying.

Yeah, I saw that one as well; it's K-frame only though. It will be too narrow for your vehicle.

You're welcome. All of us have been in that no tools position at one time. What I did when I was your age was to wait for Craftsman to put their tool sets on sale and then purchased them. If you can get a quality 200-250 piece set for less than a dollar for each tool, you are doing well as it...

That price seems high, but almost any price seems high to me as I do 90% of my maintenance for myself. From reading your other posts, it appears that you want to learn to do things on your car for yourself. While that is very admirable, you need to obtain or gain access to the tools you need...

You'll need to make sure you are purchasing the correct ones for the axle housing that you currently have. 7 1/4 plates fit 7 1/4 only. 8 1/4 and 8 3/4 plates fit both 8 1/4 and 8 3/4. If you are not sure which rear axle housing you have, do a search for rear axle identification or post a pic...

I don't know how much Mancini wants for those, but I'd just look for used set of shock plates. They are fairly common in the for sale section, craigslist, and ebay. Oh, and welcome to the site.

If they are the same axle, yes, direct swap. If they are different pinion size axles, e.g., 7.25 to 8.75 or vise versa, then you will have to swap driveshafts as well.

No, they are installed on the wrong sides as well. Turn them towards the rear and swap them from each side so the shocks will mount towards the inside of the springs and not the outsides.