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There is a 5 volt regulator attached the back of the fuel gauge. It supplies the power to all of the gauges. The OEM version has points and can act up. That combined with a grounding problem can make strange things happen like this. It's easy to check the grounds under the hood first. The...

The vacuum advance can cause instability even when disconnected.

I took Slant Six Dan's advice and used Philips 12899RX2 bulbs. They worked with the stock flasher unit. The tail lights are as bright as 1157 brakes lights and the LED brake lights are twice as bright. Must have a couple of years on them and no problems.

Year One lists four engine harnesses for a 1970 Duster. You usually can get 30% off with a discount code.

The halogens are brighter and are a direct fit replacement. Adding headlight relays will make them even brighter.

A bad headlight switch will do that.

Pulling the pitman and idler arm will provide a lot more clearance.

Rockauto.com has kits for under $10.

Try jumping out the starter solenoid on the fender.

Check the return spring for the vacuum advance inside the distributor. Even with no hose connected, if loose the mechanism can bounce around and move the timing.

If you run the neutral safety switch to the primary of the Ford relay everything will shut off when you are not in neutral. The car will stall when you put it in drive. It needs to be wired to the starter relay on the drivers side fender.

Those tail lights work really well. Thanks to Dan I can drive at night or in the rain and stand a chance against today's drivers.

No, I left the stock one in and was surprised that it works the same. The Philips bulbs are the way to go. It's a two minute install. I also added a Summit Racing LED dome light to my roll bar because the convertibles just have lights that shine on the floor. Now I can see inside the car at...

The bulbs are designated red in the description (maybe to be used with a red lens) but are actually white.

If the tail lights work your ground is OK. Do both rear turn signals work? If so the bulbs, wires and fuses are OK. That would leave the switch on the brake pedal or the turn signal switch and it's connector coming out of the steering shaft.

Here are tail and brake light comparisons. The left is the LED, the right is an old 1157. The phone camera doesn't really do it justice. There is a bigger difference looking at it live.

I don't have Honda bulbs to compare to but I will take some pictures tonight comparing them to the stock 1157's and post them. I have seen Summit LED 1157 replacements and they are so bad they are not useable. The stock bulbs blow them away. They have about a dozen LED's pointing straight out...

My tail lights are not bright enough in the rain or fog. I didn't want the complexity or the look of modern LED's so I searched the subject on FABO. It didn't take long to come across some really good advice from Slant Six Dan. He said use Philips 12899RX2 bulbs. So I bought a pair of of...

After battling my fuel gauge a bunch of times, I ended up putting in a speedometer with a trip odometer. Now I always fill the tank and reset the odometer to zero. 200 miles of normal driving and it usually takes about 13 gallons (18 gallon tank). A day at the road course requires filling it...

Sometimes even though disconnected, the vacuum advance bounces around in the distributor. Does the timing mark on the balancer bounce around too? I switched to a MSD billet distributor and the timing mark is now rock solid.

Check the output voltage of the alternator first. If it is over 14.5 volts it will take out bulbs, battery and everything else. Don't ask me how I know this, LOL.

The 360 should see 34 Degrees at 2600 RPM (all in by then). The distributor came with springs and spacers to set this. You will need a harmonic balancer with the 34 degrees on it, or an offset timing light.

If you are going to buy a spare, get a chrome box. Use the chrome box and use the orange one for a spare. The chrome box is rated to a higher RPM (8000 vs 6000). These boxes do fail from time to time so it is worth it to have a spare.

Another option would be one of the new smaller, high tech batteries. My kid put one in his Caliber to clear his bigger intake pipe. It's half the size and weight of the stock one.

I have the 6AL box driving a Blaster coil with out the ballast resistor. The MSD box does not need an external current limiter. The stock coil will not draw as much current and will produce a lower voltage to the plugs. It should work for a while. When it goes upgrade to the better coil, you...