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@72bluNblu, My 66 Valiant wagon had a factory installed 16:1 steering box and 245/60/14 tires. It was very heavy but responsive driving down the road. It just wasn’t for me.

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Have you driven your car with manual steering? A-bodies in my opinion don't need power steering. My go-to manual steering is the 20:1. It's one full turn faster than the 24:1 but not as "heavy" feeling as the 16:1. Electric power steering? Why? Are you planning to upgrade your electrical system...

I use 2" blocks to cut down because they're on the shelf locally.

Cut down a 2" block. That's what I usually do on early A-bodies to get 1 1/2".

KYB gas-a-just would be my choice.

I think str12-340 has sound advice. The lower control arm pivot probably got tightened WITHOUT the weight on the car. Without weight on the car when tightening, when you go for a test drive the front suspension will “collapse” just like you described.

My personal preference is 20:1. I’ve had cars with all three different ratios and 20:1 is the “Goldilocks” of steering boxes…just right.

Their rear sway bars are a copy of Chrysler’s factory engineered 1976 A-body police/taxi bars. I have one but don’t have an A-body to put it on.

I learned my lesson a long time ago about ADDCO bars…buy something better! Now I choose Firm Feel or Hellwig. An hour or so to install a sway bar because the hardware is quality and made for the application.

Hellwig and Firm Feel have excellent, well engineered brackets. In my opinion, well worth the extra $$$.

Call Firm Feel and order their sway bar tabs that bolt through the shock bolt.

Best way to install an Addco sway bar is to put it back in the box and return it. Then get a Hellwig or Firm Feel.

By moving the axle back 1/2”, have you considered the shocks binding or bending?

Take a look at US Cartool's spring relocation kit before you pull the trigger. Mopar A-Body 67-75 Spring Hanger Re-Location Kit

Are you disconnecting the upper control arm from the spindle? Did you loosen the nut that holds the lower control arm in the k-member? This is what I've had to do a couple times.

I would start at the steering coupler. Are all of the steering parts new all the way out to the spindles?

If you have a V8 parts car, you should have everything to convert your 66 6cyl car. As stated above, there is only one k-member. Just the engine brackets are are different. I know it’s asking a lot, but I would think this is one of the most asked question regarding early a-bodies and deserves a...

I can recommend Firm Feel and Hellwig from personal experience.

I assume that you have rubber bushings everywhere. Poly or polygraphite bushings make a big difference in the feel. Bigger sway bar would help too. Those shocks are not adequate for Grandma to get groceries at the corner store.

Just like the other guys have said, I prefer the 20:1 box.

Good info. Might try a different wheel on my 69.

I’ve had all three ratios. By far, I like the 20:1 the best.

I've used the Firm Feel sway bar on a few early a-bodies. Super easy to install with high quality hardware and brackets.

20:1 is a good compromise between the fast ratio and standard ratio. If you have wide tires, the 16:1 gets a little tiresome.

I would check out the 20:1 manual box from Firm Feel. It’s a good upgrade over the stock 24:1

Use an aftermarket sway-bar and be done with it. I have used the Firm Feel solid bar on several early a-bodies. It makes a huge difference. Also, gas shocks. I've used both KYB and Bilstein.

Having owned cars with all three ratio steering boxes, I prefer the 20:1. It's a great box without the negatives of the others.

Is there a source for complete, ready to run 20:1 boxes other than Firm Feel?