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You're right. I use a couple of the air dry formulations for stuff I polish / buff. Putting them under excessive heat is not a good idea though or it will burn and discolor. I guess you found that out. What were you trying to do there?

Possibly. There are several different formulations of ceramic (for polished metals, firearm coatings, exhaust, etc.) including newer temporary ones for paint, headlight restoration and trim. I'm happy to talk -- give me a call anytime after 10 a.m. central. Here's their website if you care to...

You're welcome Bill.

Since it's never been used that's an option, but the materials are pricey (+/- $300 a gallon). If it is used and sprayed without outgassing, blasting and cleaning, all the old grunge will return underneath it ... and be sealed forever under a tough coat of ceramic. Choose wisely.

If your intake gets that hot you need a tune up, not ceramic.

Cleaning the outside of an old aluminum intake is all fine and good but, as mentioned, it doesn't usually last long. All that discoloration happens because aluminum is very porous; fuel and grunge essentially soak into the metal and embed over time with engine heat. It has to be completely...

Ahhh, thank you. I've always called them vented flap wheels and they work very well, though I don't remove paint with them. Auto Body Toolmart and TP Tools are good sources.

Find some old stuff. New stripper is about useless unless you go with aircraft stripper.

... except body putty won't stop future delamination or corrosion.

I appreciate the shout out but prefer to do any repairs myself because few are intimately familiar with the requirements of powder coating. JB has its uses but usually comes with thousands of air bubble aftereffects if it's not mixed properly. Pot metal is its own beast when it comes to...

Thanks for the tag. The biggest issue with refinishing a part that's already powder coated is that you have to rely that the person prepping it initially did it properly. If all they did was "rough up the metal with a Scotch Brite" or powder right over smooth new metal (sadly much more common...

I appreciate that Ron but encourage you to research all other avenues first. Your 340-S inserts are a lot more rare and costly, and heating up pot metal -- most especially on a job that will take several colors (a chrome replica, light and dark argent silvers sealed with a separate clear coat...

I have two problems with coating over chrome. The ideal surface for any powder is the media blasted, bare, spotlessly clean substrate metal. Blasting a good, triple-plated chrome job to provide for adequate powder "tooth" and longevity is tedious enough just to etch it let alone completely...

Actually, powder coating pot metal is something most coaters avoid like the plague because it's full of trapped air, mixed metals and impurities, making the outcome impossible to predict. The thicker the part, the more likely it's going to blow up into a minefield of bubbles. Hood inserts CAN...

Thanks for the shout George! If the prep was that substandard, blasting -- or even a wire wheel -- should work. Blasting a k-member in a cabinet is a pain trying to reach in all the crevices. Chemical stripper would be faster for sure but 5 gallons is $200, plus you have the chore of finding...

I've found the generic store brand heavy duty oven cleaner works better than Easy Off.

If small dings and scrapes bug you now, obvious touch ups will be worse and always catch your eye, even if no one else notices. Strip them and do it right. Your hemi deserves the best.

I got a reply from Dana yesterday. He's finishing up a couple jobs right now but it appears he may have some time to devote soon. Shoot him a message and get on his Waiting List -- it fills up quickly once the word gets out. [email protected]

He DOES do amazing work, but he also has a day job. As far as I know he isn't taking anything on right now. I'll text him a link to the thread to see though. Here's a pic of my trunk trim ...

Look into this stuff for protecting your finished trim. It's completely replaced clear powder on the aluminum parts I polish here. Truly a DIY product. Cerakote - HIGH GLOSS CERAMIC CLEAR

Thanks for the mention @Blind Squirrel. I've restored dozens of old air cleaners through the years but don't recall ever seeing a "factory rust coating" on any of them. Perhaps a vinegar / electrolosis bath will clean it up some (I media blast). @cruiser, just one question though. Why would...

If your chrome is pitted or already flaking, DO NOT use aluminum foil and water/Coke. It will make it worse. I haven't tried **** on a bumper but there was a certain trunk lid back in the day ..... but that's a story for another time. :D

He doesn't have any contact info on his post or profile.

I got replica studs at Fastenal.

From my point of view, it gets finish prepped and coated within hours of coming out of my blast cabinet. Flash rust happens immediately.

Most likely they were not yours. It's common knowledge in the trim world that King of Trim routinely restores core parts.

The "start up spray on chrome kit" from Future Chrome (with the various chemical treatments and still no proof of UV stability) is ONLY $22,000.00.

My longtime friend Dana Price of NW Barracudas in Oregon does amazing trim resto work, has integrity, and is a Veteran (101st Airborne). [email protected]. Though I do some here myself on a very limited basis, he restored my '68 tail panel.

Keep in mind that oven cleaner is basically lye, a caustic chemical that you do not want on your skin, blowing in your face or getting in your eyes. Funny -- just watched Uncle Tony's video about undercoating removal a few nights ago. :D

Billy watched a few YouTube videos and made his own dustless blaster for the GTX.