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Move the steering column all the way over. There's quite a bit of room for movement. Then put 1/8" washers on the side of the steering box. This kicks the box at a little angle, enough for steering coupler to sneak by number 7 tube.

Yes

How about lower control arm nut not tight. Allowing it to shake in turn when load is put on it in turn. I know strut rod is there to hold it as well. If that nut isn't very tight the king pin can shake rattle and roll. Just my two cents.

You don't need any shims with mopars. Can you invest 400.00? I bought the long acre kit and turning plates. Works very well.

On my 67 fish with the offset bushings I was able to get +3 degrees caster with - 1 degree camber on drivers and -.08 degree on passengers.

On my 65 valiant I was able to slide the Lca out to replace the strut rod bushings without breaking apart the bj. You could put the right ones in. Remember it will affect your caster. During rebuild did you use offset uca bushings. That will help get you more caster.

I cut back the column 3" and put a bearing in. I had to sleeve the column with exhaust pipe to get the outer diameter I wanted. Same deal as you. 340 with dougs headers.

IMO. Your quarters are hung a little off. Your spring perch is correct. Your reveal to tire to spring is the same on both sides. Frame rails are straight to each other. Front spring anchors could be off or quarters are off. Do you really think at the factory in the 60's much was given to detail...

You could install offset bushings. Normally you would use them to gain 2 to 3 degrees caster. But you could install them backwards to take away caster. But the offset bushings are only gonna be good for a fat 2 degrees.

If I remember the cam bolts are 1/2 " with fine thread nuts. I greased them as well, said in above post, easier to turn them. I have my own turn plates and long acre alignment tool. The cam bolts moved on me too. I thought I had them tight enough. I did not. So I re did my alignment and torqued...

Screwed the two pieces of pipe and the column together. If I remember right I swelled the outer edge of the pipe to accept the bearing. I just used a tail pipe expander.

Best pic I could get

Yes. Use the bearing everyone else does on the 68 and up. Sleeve the steering column with a piece of pipe. I think you have to make up a 1/4". So I used 2" and 2 1/8" exhaust pipe. The reason I got into this project was because the column stuck out to far from the firewall, it was interfering...

Manciniracing.com 125.95

It's a 1/2" bolt. Torque them to 80 foot pounds. No amount of anti seize or grease is going to let the cam slip.

I just replaced my cam bolts. Got them from rock auto. I also put in the offset bushings. I did grease the cams and the slides on the outside. They moved very nice.

1.03 pst in my 340 six pack 67 barracuda. I LOVE them. Also have bilsteins shocks with 2" sway bar. No dip or dive in the corners although it is just a street toy. I can't say if it's a stiff ride or not, that's kind of a personal preference. Bilsteins shocks in the back with leaf springs +2 in...

Springs things.com. They are out of PA. They will make stock, 1 and 2" lift.

I have the pst 1.03 on my barracuda. Love them. I am running a 340 . Very firm. I run the bilsteins shocks and the hotchkis 1 1/8 sway bar. I like this set up.

Yes you will need a new pitman arm. You will have to cross reference the center link. I can't remember off the top of my head.

Bilsteins on all four corners with 1.03 torsion bars. With 1.5 sway bar on front. 1" sway bar on back. Home made rear springs out of a c body using a body main leaf. Six pack of leafs cut to my specs.