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Are these plugs still available? I tried looking up Ez Site to no avail. I'd like to have at least 4 to put in my 4779 Holley carburetor.

Go back to the basic tune and begin making ONE change at a time to see how it affects the engine, how it runs out and how it drives. Making wholesale multiple changes will bite you in the *** because you don't know which change effected what.

@halifaxhops

I don't believe there is a difference in the trays, just the sumps and pickups. I think I remember comparing a 360 passenger tray to my truck 360 tray and didn't see a difference. I could be wrong, don't take it for granted.

I had to use the spacers on my engine, both the intake and valve covers were powder coated. I didn't want to take a chance and mess up the coating by grinding on either of them, it worked out very well.

On the jets, step down gradually. The change from 72 to 67 primary and 84 to 76 secondary is too much of a jump.

He thinks everyone's negative thoughts on that "precious" intake is a challenge. That being said, if he wants to put $150.00+ into a piece of junk, let him. If he "is" foolish enough to take it on, he can't say he hasn't been cautioned away from it. Personally, no matter what year SBM intake it...

I believe the peep hole was either on a van, or possibly a truck for ease of sight. In a passenger car, I see no use for it. As far as determining TDC, are you sure the outer ring of the balancer hasn't slipped?

If you get it welded up, just remember that there may be cracks you don't see until it's bolted down and heat cycled a few times. You may end up down the rabbit hole.

B3 engineering is the guy you need to talk to, he is a wizard at correcting the geometry of rocker arms.

Which rocker arms do you have, the HP or stock run of the mill rockers? They made 340 stamped steel rockers to clear the valve springs.

Use eye protection, shoot the area with brake or carb cleaner, fire it up, let it idle for a few, look for witness marks of leakage.

I would double check the timing, and check the balancer to make sure the outer ring hasn't slipped, this could give you a false reading on the initial and total timing.

That is why this site is the best, most people here are willing to share their knowledge to keep others from making mistakes.

Go to ARP and order a set of their rod bolts and nuts, one and done.

700 to 750 cfm carburetor will work fine. My suggestion would be to read your plugs after a few miles, or get a AFR gauge. It will take a bit of tuning in order to get it right.

What are they currently charging per rocker arm these days?

I've been running bushed ductile iron rockers for over 5 decades and have never had one fail. Some of the non bushed rockers I've picked up are galled and the simple fix was to have bushings installed.

From Jegs: Eagle Products 273-360ci 6.123" Connecting Rods Bushed Piston Pin 273-360ci 6.123'' Connecting Rods Bushed Piston Pin 3/8'' Capscrew Rod bolt 605-grams Set of 8 View Details $385.99 Ships Monday FREE Shipping Lowest Price Guarantee

The VERY first thing I would do is have the block sonic tested to make sure you can bore it to whatever pistons you choose. I have 2 71 cast 360 blocks, one is over bored .070 and the other is .030, going to .070 to built a 416. I have all of the parts and pieces from a Hensley Motor Sports...

Place an ad in the "Wanted" section and see who comes up with one. I'll bet someone here has a core, or one they have pulled to go bigger.

"Just an oldman making chips. Lol" But the end results are beneficial to you or someone else.

PBR, I wish we lived closer. I'd really like to watch you work and pick your brain. I've learned a ton about heads and intakes from watching and reading your posts.

I just looked at the Jeg's site, they show three in stock.

I think balancing the complete rotating assembly would be key to how long the combination lasts. Of course, balancing is key to the life span of our race engines.

Before you can get a good read on the plugs, you need at least 300-500 miles on it to make sure the rings are seated well. This driving needs to be varied from idle to 40 - 50 MPH and don't go hammering on it yet. LOL

Get with B3 to correct the geometry, he may be able to shed some light on the problem.

Hot Rod magazine built a cast crank 340 using the 318-3 cast crank years back, so the cast cranks can be interchanged. The reasoning was that the 318-3 crank was primarily a truck crank and was supposedly stronger.

Put an ad in the "Wanted" section, someone close to you probably has a usable crank.

Kevin Wilkinson, (850) 682-4669, Crestview search engine is your friend. I looked it up in a matter of seconds.