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I had really good luck with the FlowKooler pumps on my street cars, but that was before I decided to buy a race car and use an electric pump.

It's an interference fit on the water pump hub. Grab the fan blades, walk it back and forth. Just be careful not to punch a hole in the radiator.

Yep, Denny can most likely tell you which is the better of the two compressors.

Pull the control panel to see if there is a vacuum switch on the back side.

Are they thermostatically operated, if so do you have all of the correct relays? I incorporated something similar years back from a GM product. I set one fan up to be manual and the other on a thermostatic relay. My memory isn't what it used to be, so I don't remember all of the details.

X2 On the Cascade powder, used it many times in the 70's and 80's.

Take the ID tag off and label the switch "Ejection Seat". LMAO

Query Cold Case about transmission line spacing, they are members here.

Convert the system to R134 refrigerant along with a Sanden style compressor and a larger condenser. If it were mine, that's what I would do. Those older dealer installed AC units are a ton better than some of the stuff on the market today.

Check with the larger aftermarket AC suppliers and tell them what you are doing, as well as your average weather conditions to see what they recommend. I know that here in south Texas, AC is almost a must have accessory because of the humidity.

I could be wrong, but I think AirTemp made those for dealer installed A/C.

Look into Vintage Air to replace the heater/defroster system & add A/C.

I have a liquid filled mechanical Autometer in the race car, been there for 20 plus years with no problems.

I had a two pass aluminum in the Demon bracket car with the 408, it was iffy cooling it down in round robin events. I went to a 3 pass cross aluminum flow when I built my 416 & usually by the time it get back to the pit area & cycle the electric water pump & electric fan about 3 times, it's...

Yep, that will work.

Plymouth was discontinued so some places don't list all of the Plymouth line. Look it up as a 73 Dart. I looked Champion's website under 73 Dart & it shows the radiator you are looking for.

Champion has them for 73-76 Dart 26" & you might try Cold Case they are a vendor here.

Dayum, $150.00 for a questionable knee knocker A/C unit. I remember when you took them out to build race cars & you couldn't give them away.

Contact Thermo King, they are still in business & making HVAC equipment. If they can't help, ask if they can steer you to someone who can be of help.

str12-340, keep on keeping on. Obviously you aren't open to others opinions on possible other products that may serve you well.

My guess is chinesium crap from reading the website also.

My question would be where are they manufactured? A lot of the junk from overseas may have a lifetime warranty & you spend a lifetime changing it out. Remember Autozone's lifetime warranty starters, alternators & such? I think I would investigate Cold Case (a vendor on this site), Griffin &...

Have you checked the timing, what fan does it have & does it have a fan shroud? Pictures would help.

It also helps any air pocket that may occur.

The curved blade fans seem to be more efficient than the straight blade fans in my opinion. I had a straight blade puller fan on my bracket car & traded it out for a curved blade fan. On the ride back down the return road, the curved blade fan cooled the car down much faster than the straight...

Don't get your knickers in a twist, most of us are just having fun with you. LMAO

Some of them think we are omniscient & mind readers. LOL

Show a picture of the intake you are using & someone will be able to tell you.

Thanks j par, I'm going to look into them.

The main problem with the factory system is, it was destroyed by a minor electrical fire under the dash. That is the primary reason for looking into after market systems.