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I've used red Hi-Temp silicone for ages on my race cars and street cars with no leakage.

The wagon tail pipes were run to the side so carbon monoxide wasn't sucked in the car if you ran with the rear window down.

Back when these cars were built, mandrel bent exhaust systems were a pipe dream. It was much less expensive to bend the OEM pipes the old fashioned way.

First off, it sounds like a cobbled up mess. The 71 Dart did not come with a 273 and most of the 273 cars had a 904 transmission. Whatever you have, you need to post pictures because we cannot see what "you" are looking at.

There is usually minimal clearance between the T bars and the header tubes. Being as the car is 50 years old, there is no telling how it's been tweaked over the years. We installed a set of Doug's headers on a 72 Duster 340 4 speed car. We ended up moving and shimming the mounts, as well as...

I helped a friend install the D453 headers on his 72 Duster, but it didn't have power steering. I would check to make sure the are compatible with power steering.

With as much "el cheapo" plating as there is out there these days, I would bite the bullet and buy stainless. That way you are not replacing every other year or so. Since the EPA cracked down on the plating shops, some of them are cutting as many corners as possible to rake in the bucks. THIS...

We need pictures, or a better description of what you are working on. We can't see it from our house!

Header wrap also traps moisture between it and the header causing severe rust out. Ask me how I know!

I have a pair of Walker C body mufflers, I used them on my 2500 Ram 5.9 gas truck. They have a decent idle quality and are not obnoxious on the road or at highway speeds. PM me you email address and I send you pictures and measurements.

Just think, you are putting an E body exhaust system in an A body. There "WILL" be modifications that need to be done, take your time, plan it out and then enjoy it.

I'm with RRR, but I'd use stainless studs with stainless washers & brass nuts. After many heat cycles, the brass nuts will still come off & if not the threads will be wiped out so you can just replace the nuts, if needed.

Give the Patriot gaskets a try, I recently put a set on my bracket car when I changed headers. They seem to seal up really well, the proof will be the next time I take it out.

Remflex doesn't list the econo W2 header gaskets.

With a sheet of heat resistant gasket material & a small hammer, you can make yourself a set of perfect fitting gaskets. I've done it in the past & used the high temp RTV with the gaskets & they last a long time. Just a suggestion for you.

Let us know how it works out. I have a set of slip joint headers I might try it on.

Get 2 U bends & go see your local muffler shop, we did this installation on a 72 Duster about 3 months ago. We trailer the car & had everything TIG welded & 340 exhaust tips installed, cost $120.00 out the door.

My friend & I put Doug's D453 headers on his 72 340 Duster 4 speed, manual steering car. We had to clearance one of the tubes on the passenger side header to clear the torsion bar. Other than that, the installation was a breeze.

Time & patience, time & patience.

We just put Flow master 44's on a 72 Duster 340 4 speed car with an X pipe. It has a nice mellow exhaust note at idle & sounds good under power. There isn't any drone at highway speeds & the customer is extremely happy.

The "Hold my beer & watch this" is an expression that when you hear it, it usually means a hospital visit is in the very near future for somebody/somebodies.

Something tells me this is one of those; "Hold my beer & watch this". I pretty sure that something like that might end up with people in jail now days.

Dang, I'm surprised all of us missed that. We must be getting old & our attention span is waning. LOL.

You may have to put a shim in for it to clear unless someone else has any ideas.

My current car 71 Demon bracket racer has a flat aluminum floor in it with a rubber mat that the fuel cell sits on with the sump below the pan. I took my time & slowly cut the original floor pan out since the car was already painted. I only had one spot about the size of a pencil eraser that I...

IIRC, most of the 68 & later tanks were centered to afford running dual exhaust. I haven't had a car with a stock tank in it in years, most of my recent cars have had fuel cells mounted in the spare tire well, or I did away with the well & pit a flat floor in them.

Your tank needs to move over towards the drivers side, the straps are not in the inset of the tank.

Damn, do I have to stand on my head to make sense of the pictures. LMAO It looks like your tank needs to be centered up & run the oval pipe on each side.

Use what Treblig showed & a quality exhaust shop can make the oval round in order to attach the exhaust tips.

I'd take it to my local muffler shop & have them put solid wall pipe in instead of the flex pipe.