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I agree with RRR, I think you need to get into some serious trouble shooting of the fuel system and its delivery.

If you can get in touch with the cap manufacturer, they may have the seal you are looking for. What you have looks like a Stant locking gas cap.

If you use starting fluid, all you need is a quick blast. Continual use will wash away lubrication and cause the above described problems. It isn't meant to be fuel, it is meant to be an aid to get engines to fire to get fuel moving.

I did a conversion to EFI using the metal fuel tank recently. I used a fitting similar to the one bulkhead referenced in post #2. I drilled the tank with the sending unit out and was able to get my arm in the sender hole to tighten up the nut on the bulkhead fitting. The customer is driving it...

As stated, pictures would be helpful. Someone here may have just the parts and pieces to correct the problem.

"MADE IN CHINA TO CHINESE SPECS"! Nuff said! As stated, the companies DO NOT care, it's all about the bottom line. Efficiency experts and accountants run the big companies and have NO idea, nor do they care about our sport/hobby.

The 73 manifold is for a Thermoquad carburetor mot an AVS, either way something has to change. Either the intake or the carburetor.

Pictures, so we might be able to see what you are describing.

Have you tried tuning on the double pumper, jets, power valves, or accelerator cams? Since it seems to like more carburetor than the 600, I'd play with the 750. In my opinion, the Holley is much easier to tune and change per your situation. PM me if you need any information about Holley parts...

The 1406 units are pretty much plug and play, we installed one I had one the shelf for many years on a friends 72 Duster 340 a speed. We did a little tuning with the mixture screws, timing and idle adjustment. The car runs out well and gets decent fuel mileage.

It looks like a pretty complete setup and the seller has a 99% rating on feedback.

That is possible. What valve do the tuning specs call for and have you experimented going up or down, or putting a block off in place of the valve. Years back when I ran a 340/6 4 speed car on the street, it was a constant tuning event. This was because the car was my DD, but was raced on the...

Have you checked the power valve, and is it the correct one?

The after market lock rings are "thinner" not smaller than the OEM pieces.

Are you sure the sender lock ring is fully seated? Some of the after market rings are thinner than OEM.

Google the part number on the flange to see what it actually fits.

A well setup and tuned multiple carburetor setup is a kick in the *** to drive. But in the same vein, some people think if some is good MORE is better and they go overboard with big CFM units, not tuned well to the point of almost dripping gas from the exhaust pipes of the vehicle.

My suggestion would be to hunt a four barrel intake and put an Edelbrock carb on it. Out of the box, those carbs are plug and play with little or no maintenance.

A couple of years back, I ended up with about 5-6 of the 2210 carbs. I took them to swap meets, even tried selling them here to no avail. They went to the scrap pile and then to the recycler.

He's going to argue with a fence post. He has been given tons of information and chooses to ignore it. I'm with inertia, I'm out and user blocked.

It's probably like anything else, the industry was sent overseas because they can get the folks there to work in exchange for a chicken a day.

Truer words were never spoken!!!

It's a tried and true combination, I've run that set up on 273's, 318's and mild 340's. I almost 99.99% of the cases, the fuel economy was better than any 2 bbl on the market. You will see no difference at a cruising speed at 2500 and under. You will see more and better performance when you...

Instead of dealing with 30 to 50 year old parts, get an aluminum intake and a new Edelbrock 635 CFM carburetor. I 99% positive you will NOT see any decrease in fuel economy, I'll bet that it may get even better MPG.

The throttle shaft bushings could be worn, causing a vacuum leak. Test it while running with brake clean or WD40.

I'm pretty sure your fuel line is 5/16" if it's a factory line. That being said, you need a 1/4" male pipe to 5/16" inverted flare fitting.

Once you have built the car to run on modern fuel, drive it around and tune it accordingly. Check your timing, read your plugs and pay attention to the old seat of the pants feeling.

Spectra seems to be the one people are gravitating to, a friend of mine bought one for his 72 Duster about two years ago and there have been no problems.

Listen to OMM, he knows of what he speaks.

Email with pictures sent to you.