Search results for query: *

A friend and I ran into the same problem, I have no idea why they don't fit. The yokes on the driveshaft are brand new and have never had a vise or C clamp used on them. We are going to wrap tape around the cup surfaces and lightly grind (very little heat) down the offending material as to not...

It should work.

Back in the mid to late 60's, Stock Eliminator wasn't required to have a clutch can. We were at a now defunct drag strip in East Texas and a guy pulled to the lanes on a 55 Chevy 2 door wagon to do his burn out. Just as he began to roll out of the box, the clutch assembly exploded. It decimated...

I really enjoyed my days of street racing in the 70's with a VertiGate shifter. I takes practice to street race a stick car, but now days I drive a stick diesel one ton and it's fun also...

I agree that the shifters might be the same. I picked one up in a wrecking yard years ago, it was in a 67 Chevelle. I bought the installation kit and shift rods for my 68 Barracuda.

When you replace the linkage bushings, try not to use the plastic ones, look for some called "oilite" (sic). Be sure to use the washers & the correct hairpin clips. Check for slop on both ends of the linkage, transmission & shifter.

Does anyone have the OD measurement of the bearing retainer on an A 833 4 speed? Over the weekend when we disassembled the engine & transmission on a friends car, we noticed that after we unbolted the trans that we couldn't get it to separate from the bell housing. We finally took the bell...

In the last 2 pictures, the bottom 3 rods "look" to be either 883 or 883 OD shift levers & rods. I'd have to get up under the 72 Duster to make sure, or contact Brewer's with the numbers & see what they can tell you.

The register in the crankshaft & the ID of the bearing needs to be measured with an ID/OD caliper to get a correct measurement in my opinion.

We modified a Z bar to look similar to the one on the left of post #10. We installed the D453 headers & planned our moves from there. I'm almost positive the car we were working on had been wrecked in it's past life. Whoever repaired it did a good job of hiding any damage.

Put the reverse lever down by the edge of the seat where it's a pull up, or push down for engagement.

Dated 2-1-67 for 68 GM, probably Chevrolet Borg Warner T 10 cast iron case 4 speed. Back in the day, it was a much sought after transmission.

Back in the late 60's, I bought a 55 Cameo pickup from an estate sale. It had a non running 283 in it, we towed it home & found that it had an old Saginaw 4 speed in it. What mystified us was that it had a lever sticking out of the floor & it was connected to the reverse lever on the...

Permatex seal & lock gets my vote, also great stuff.

The 3894 number is the 3-4 selector arm for a Mopar 4 speed. Other than that, you might take the shifter off & see if there are any numbers on the shifter box.

The shifter looks to be a B body console shifter, but it's tough to tell for sure. Are there any numbers on the shifter or shifter box?

Either have your resurfaced & use it or pick up one from one of our members to have it surfaced while your truck is still useable before replacing everything.

TMM, I was waiting for that comment. LOL You are 100% correct, not for the feint of heart.

We need more information, clutch disc size, is bell housing correct for the flywheel & transmission? There are a lot of variables that can figure into the swap over.

As stated, get the correct flywheel for you application. i.e. internally or externally balanced. Trying to drill for externally balanced engine will be a disaster.

I would just find a plug for the hole. I have no idea why the center hole is open.

That is where the linkage for an automatic transmission goes. The hump where you shifter is is correct for your car, do not worry about the other one. Seal it up so moisture & critters can't get in & you are good to go.

Crankshaft is not drilled for standard transmission.

Ask Ronny Brown, when his flywheel exploded back in the late sixties a piece hit the ground & ricocheted up. It hit someone standing on the outside of the rails at the starting line in the neck, they bled out before the paramedics could help him. Ronny was running stock eliminator & clutch cans...

More information is needed. What car, what engine, what HP, what's the usage, street car, race car, combination of both? Your question leaves us to guess at the combination.

It really makes no difference as long as you get all of the correct pieces.

B/E body 4 speed is to long for the A body, the tail shaft & housing is too long for the A body.

Check you linkage & linkage arms to make sure they are not worn out due to the plastic bushings wearing out & not being replaced. You can get "Oilite" (trade name) bushings that will help if you have oblong holes on the arms.

If you're turning that kind of HP, you should upgrade to 10.5" clutch. I vote NO on the 9" & the 9.5".

It's called, "Beat to fit, paint to match". That's what our old body & paint instructor told us in the 60's. LMAO