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If it's street car, you won't notice the HP loss. Running the manifolds versus headers would be my choice because unless you buy the TTI headers, you will be "clearancing" them as you mentioned.

What engine was in the car originally?

The elephant ears are bent because of the ping pong action of the engine during acceleration and deceleration. In other words, the back and forth movement. I have a limiter on each side of my engine which has a motor plate to stop this. There was a post on here about this action, I just can't...

You can't fault yourself, you took someones word that everything was correct. But then again, I leave nothing to chance on my end. I go over everything with a fine toothed comb to try and make sure all is correct.

Unfortunately, I no longer run BBMs, I've switched over to stroked SBMs in my bracket car. I'm sure someone here has the correct measurement for the push rod. You might want to ask the question in the "General" section.

Have you checked to make sure the fuel pump push rod is the correct length and that the lobe on the cam isn't worn down? I've run BBMs in every body type and never had the problem with mechanical fuel pumps that you are having.

When installing the bars, the adjusters should be about as equal as you can get them by eye. Be sure the lower arms are as far down as possible when installing the bars. With the BBM in it I would run the adjusters as far down as I could, this would allow more adjustment once installed. I forget...

How did you install the torsion bars and where were the adjuster bolts set when installed?

Edelbrock carburetors are great for all around street cars, they a pretty much plug and play. For street use, the Holley carburetor requires too much tuning and tweaking to get it right. I run a Holley on my bracket car and an Edelbrock on my street car.

I don't understand the high under hood heat issue the OP is having. There are a raft of BBM powered A bodies out there without the heating problem. Maybe the OP could post pictures so we might see where possibly the problem is.

Be sure to check the power valve in the 4160 carburetor, that may be part of the problem.

My suggestion would be to start with a through tune up, including a compression test.

It sounds like 440 Source has a bunch of Teflon seals they need to unload. LOL

There is a Viton seal application for double springs, I'll se if I can dig up the part number.

Have you put a level on the intake to see what, if any angles you have?

Mancini, Jegs, Summit they show listings. The Mopar pan is PN 893.

Any BBM pan for an A body will work, they show up in the "For Sale" some times. Just be sure you get the correct pickup tube.

Accel makes angled ceramic plug ended wires, a friend uses them on his RB with large tube headers and has had no problems. They are a "bit" pricey, but well worth it in the end.

Years ago 20 to 30 years ago, there were some racers out in the west coast area who did a ton of experimentation with off set grinding B and RB cranks for big cubic inch engines. I used to know some of their names, but I'll bet most of them have gone to the great race track in the sky. The...

RRR, Just a thought, have you checked the balancer to make sure the outer ring hasn't twisted?

With the grace from above, a torch, a welding rig, a large hammer and a lot of patience, you can put a BBM in just about anything. Oh, and a lot of disposable income. LOL

You are correct, not many options out there. Unfortunately, unless you buy from and individual you are going to pay sales tax. The days of buying from out of your home state with no sales taxes being charged is long gone.

That's one badazz Mopar, it looks fast just sitting still.

If your are trying to do this by yourself as a one man band & you don't want to take the K member out, I would install the engine from the top side & them install the transmission from below. Probably be a lot safer for you, not to mention engine & transmission & not to mention the front end...

Power gains with the geometry correction are probably minimal, but the entire drive train is probably much happier & will live a long life span.

Back in the late seventies, I had an old 413 block, a friends son wanted to take on an engine building project for a vocational mechanics class. I gave him the block, he & his instructor figured out how large to bore it to put non Mopar pistons in it. After they finished it, the son brought the...

Yes, just be sure to check your bearing clearances.

I don't have any knowledge of breakage, but my former racing partner decided to build the 400 blocks when the 440 block prices started climbing. He had a killer 470 in his 65 Satellite street car that ran like a scalded dog. I don't remember what the internals were, I do remember it was a solid...

Have you checked to see if the primary power valve is blown, if it has one? Do you know the jet sizing in the carburetor?

Start with the basics, check plugs, timing with & without vacuum advance hooked up. What carburetor & ignition does it have? Without more information, it' a little tough to try & help diagnose the source of the problem.