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I built my 273 and in retrospect I would have rather gone to a 318 or larger. The issue for me is torque. Yes I can spin to 6K but it doesn't wake up until 3K and that is not the range to run a daily driver motor. The sad thing is that I was advised to do just that but I wanted to keep the...

I powdercoated my LD4B, first silver then clear.

Yep that's it. SB valve covers have no right or left but they do have a top and bottom. Switching results in the same configuration - just sign me captain obvious.

Switching sides also switches ends ------------

I really like this little cam. I looked up the specs for the stock commando solid lifter cam and tried to go just a little more with a hydraulic unit. I built the motor component matched for 5500 RPM but have easily gone up to 6K without missing a thing. I used Egge 10.5:1 out .040K and...

I know this isn't your cam but it is a 256/262. It is what I put in my 273 build. May be something you can use------?

I have those pistons in my 273 and I don't remember them sticking above the deck. I will have to look at my build thread photos to check it out. I know I went with .040 over and checked my valve to piston clearance and I had a lot of clearance with a commando/spec cam.

In only three years so I'm not expecting any issues.part of my winter upgrade plans are to get the stock manifolds detailed and bead blasted. Then some high heat color TBD.

Thanks I thought that was the case and my studs are in and sealed like frannies panties. Manifolds will be removed for significant improvement.

Which fasteners holding the exhaust manifolds to a 67 273 head go into the water jacket? I'm removing my manifolds for beautification and don't need a floor covered in antifreeze.

Not that much cost to fix the issue. There are so many additional benefits with that valve that you will quickly realize the cost/value exceeds the actual cost.

Looks like you nailed it to me. Tuned, that combination will be a runner. In any A-body with the correct TC if it is an automatic, in any case if is a manual transmission. Need photos of the car.

I tried stock PCV and my engine caused intermittent clacking and whining. Installed the Wagner PCV valve and multiple good things happened and no more noise. My Cal Custom valve covers are baffled and stood off the heads with spacers as well. Didn't stop the noise issue though until I changed...

When considering transmission change remember that the 273 crankshaft pilot is smaller than the other LA engine series. I built my original 273 as I wanted with a built 904. The 904 has less parasitic loss than the 727. You really can’t go wrong with the 318 motor though. Plentiful and lots of...

Looks just like my pertronix. Red to + on coil and black to - on coil. No ballast resistor.

Yeah I looked at that but decided 1-that stainless steel is hard to tap and 2-threading and plugging cast iron with huge temperature swings is asking for a crack. (and not the good kind)

I removed mine, shaft and all. There are SS sleeves cast into the manifold where the shaft rides on both sides. I took mine to a machine shop, had them remove the SS sleeves and braze the holes closed. Electric choke carburetors don't need the damn things!

I had the same thing on mine. Rotating the internals while running the priming pump will oil the rockers alternately right side-left side. I turned mine over enough to get four lube cycles on each side and called it good.

Like Tiger Wood said to the little blonde---------It'l go----------

Most everything has been covered so I can't contribute much. I suspect a leaking intake manifold gasket from your original post. Vacuum leak from improper install of an aftermarket intake. Also just since it hasn't been mentioned the oil could be valve guide seals. It happened to me that way...

I had that on my 273 converted to hydraulic lifters. The pushrods were too long changing the geometry. I had to have custom pushrods made to fix it.

Mine is hydraulic flat tappet and I am running Mobil 1 5/30 full synthetic with a little Lucas zinc.

Yep plug wire pliers and it’s still hard.

Go with the 650 AVS2 and don’t look back. The performer is a spread bore pattern so you will need the adapter. I’ll just say it, find an LD4B and you will be happy

You can, be sure to check the PVC system thoroughly too. Mine did that when I bought it. Valve stem seal change did not help.

Following this because I have been through it. Picture the engine sealed to atmosphere. Then picture adding a filtered fresh air inlet on the left valve cover. Then Picture adding a device that enables you to pull a vacuum on the engine crankcase (PCV valve) on the right valve cover. Then...

I have re-looked at the OP and the photos. I am convinced that the OP does not have a clear understanding of how it all works. We should suggest a proper tech article with diagrams for him to study. I am sure once he understands the concept he will be able to get it correct.

I put a Wagner adjustable 2 stage PCV valve in my system with an oil trap filter. Very happy with the results. Crankcase pressure increases with load and RPM. This setup deals with it. Caveat, if you are blowing oil mist out the dipstick tube your issues are larger than this will fix.

I milled my 273 heads .010 to true them and milled my LD4B mating surfaces .010 each side. I used high temp silicone on both sides of the intake gaskets and the install and startup is trouble free.

When I researched it the intake seemed to be the preferred one for LA small runner heads. I bought one from a member in Canada I think. I paid about $225+- and I had to have the head mating surfaces machined to clean up some pitting. The good for my build, don't use a spread bore pattern intake...