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In regards to moving the distributor to the front, I think it would be better to drop it all together and add a cam and crank position sensor. I find it somewhat humorous that in many ways, you can look at the G3 and see the evolution of the SBM. Same bore spacing and the 5.7 uses the 318 bore...

Interesting that the SB2 NASCAR engine did this to the intake ports but left the exhaust ports side by side in the center. That would lead me to believe that a symmetrical intake port had more benefit than a symmetrical exhaust port.

My ‘91 Dakota with a 318 used the Magnum motor mounts. It is a roller block, but not a Magnum motor. No idea if any other motors had the cast in bosses.

Based on the pictures on the website, the only iron Magnum head Hughes lists doesn’t appear to have the needed material to seal 340 manifolds. Plus they have the Magnum intake bolt pattern and would require the extra cost of redrilling them if you wanted to run an LA intake. The aluminum heads...

340 exhaust manifolds

Good find. I run some 340 manifolds on my R/T heads and had to get adapter cut like mentioned in that post. Some of what it comes down to is how the heads were cast. When I was putting my motor together, a buddy of mine had a set of Magnum heads on the bench and the material around the port...

TKX still needs to have the crossmember removed even if it is more compact than a TKX. Not as much floor pan work, but not a bolt in either. The right TKO might have the mods to keep the crossmember like the kits from Kreisler did but the output shaft is low if the crossmember is kept...

https://www.motortrend.com/features/mopp-0106-1979-chrysler-300/

Do you think the PS pump assembly would clear the stock battery tray?

In what way does this add drama and turmoil to the thread?? Isn't that what this is about now? :poke: :rofl:

Just personal opinion, but not a fan of a multi belt system unless one of those belts turns a supercharger :D . And I don't think they fit the definition of a serpentine belt system because the accessories aren't all on one plane and (generally) there isn't a tensioner. A multi belt setup is...

Here is a thread about the non AC w/ PS issues and some fixes: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/van-power-steering-bracket-issues.400011/

You are right, the LA has bosses up at the intake side of the head and then it tapers away from there. The Magnum head has bosses all the way across but the plane is the same as what the LA bosses use. So any head that is solid all the way across that face and has the holes drilled and tapped...

Looks like you are golden then. Those heads appear to match the Magnum bolt pattern on the end of the heads and are built up to match the plane. Based on that, I would grab a Magnum TC cover, a van or Jeep PS bracket and a standard Alt/AC bracket. Edit!!! Just cut the AC mount section off...

Pretty sure none of the Magnum PS setups will bolt to an LA, nor will the Magnum tensioner. The LA head is missing some of the bosses, and I know the block is missing the boss for the truck PS bracket. Not sure the missing boss on the block is that big of an issue, but the missing bosses on...

Here's my running total so far. I will probably have rings and bearings into the motor plus a car timing chain cover and the FEAD parts so far from a complete costing. Plus I plan to buy HP Tuners so add $500-600 for that. Core 2017 Hemi (Truck) $400.00 Holley Swap Headers $485.95...

Didn't mean to imply they used the 318 as a basis or anything. Just pointing out the interesting overlaps in bore and stroke.

I disagree with VVT being deleted, it adds a fair bit to the motor. And honestly, I think a carb’ed G3 is a waste of time. Not that there aren’t advantages even with a carb and deleting VVT, just that the EFI and VVT are significant advances. Maybe it makes sense on a race motor, but in my...

The 5.7 G3 is basically a 318 with a 360 crank. Often wondered if the factory found a bit of a sweet spot with that combination and what led to the factory settling on those numbers. Interestingly, the LS1 5.7 uses similar bore and stroke numbers (3.898 in × 3.622 in). They both went bigger...

Just a thought. If you stroke the 318, you would need to put money into a set of real heads. Otherwise I wonder if you will see any real benefits from stroking it. PowerNation did a stroked 360 and left the heads alone just to see what it did and going off memory seems like it was maybe 30...

The Poly engine has the advantage of better pushrod angles as well, correct? Not saying it's a huge issue with the standard grade LA build, but people pay a bunch of money for aftermarket blocks that correct the issue so it must be worth something. Pretty cool stuff to daydream about. In some...

That's really cool! Kind of like an old school version of the 5.7 Gen3 Hemi, same bore and stroke with some "Hemi" heads. Sweet!

I apologize, I read it backwards.

I thought of that intake as well. Unfortunately, that intake would not allow for the FEAD to bolt on. Thermostat housing is in the way of the alternator and/or AC compressor. Really has to be a Magnum intake.

@Siciliano15, since you just need holes in the intake to match up to the holes in the cylinder head and don't need to thread them, not sure if it is all that important. Maybe just an intake gasket as a template? Mark the holes and maybe drill them a little oversized then clean up the top side...

He is talking about using a beer barrel intake only as a jig. He wants to use an aftermarket MP intake that is more like an LA intake, but with vertical bolts and injector bosses.

There are mixed feelings with his stuff. For the most part I like his tech, but he certainly isn't infallible. No argument there. And I'm not saying you did it wrong. Ehrenburg's was just one take on the process and I was just curious how it compared. Love the baffle, much better than mine...

I wonder if Ehrenburg's process is based on his recommendation to only put 4 quarts in the pan. I guess he thinks that is enough oil to avoid starving the pump but keeps the oil level away from the crank. Not really sure. Been awhile since I read the article.

Curious if you checked the oil level before setting the baffle depth. I put 3 quarts of water in my pan and then matched that for a baffle depth based on an old Ehrenburg article. I don't know that it really matters a bunch, just curious if you did anything similar.

I like it! Make sure you check that your dipstick doesn't crash into the baffle. Mine didn't fit the first time. I like the wrinkles in the rear edges, looks like something the factory would have done if they had made a baffled pan.