Search results for query: *

Nice! So nice when you get to see the fruit of your labor. And really cool that you got cruise to work. I remember putting cruise on a '78 Volare and struggling to get it to work when I discovered the exact same issue; brake light switch needed to be adjusted.

If it was me, I would go to a wrecking yard and clip the plug off whatever GM model the switch came from. I would bet you could even de-pin it and slide your wires right into it. I just like having the plugs, wires don't get crossed later and less chance of them coming loose. But $35 is way...

I used an F-Body brake switch when I did my CC retrofit, but everything else was F-Body as well so it made sense. Worked with the stock bracket and gave me a NO brake light switch and a NC CC switch. No idea how many circuits you need though so not sure it is another option. I should add that...

Confused by the resume button. Doesn’t look like it ever connects to power.

I would keep the OD button with the CC buttons. Feels more organic, natural, to me. Just my opinion.

Did this exact same thing on my ‘91 Dakota, minus having to swap anything in. I used a ‘95 van PCM for my 5.9 swap and expected to have to add a wire to the ‘92 Dakota engine harness since the ‘92 was still a mechanical speedo and the van used an electronic one. But the signal wire was in the...

Nice! I completely agree, it has the built in capabilities so why not use them. Don’t remember the specifics on an OBD1 setup but the OBD2 system I had planned to use had variable resistance on one or two wires to tell the PCM which button was pushed. Is the OBD1 just one wire per button? Is...

Did I miss how you are going to run the CC (besides the buttons)? Going to use the Magnum PCM to control it like the OEM? I made plans to do to on my Duster when I was going to put the Magnum EFI on it similar to what you are doing. I planned to run the stock switch on the column, but was...

Honestly the only ones I know of are Hotwire Auto and Sublime. I know Hotwire sets their harness up to poke through a hole in the firewall and hide the PCM. Generally they use a '10-'12 or so NGC controller. I know you can get a harness and PCM from them all at once and they will work with...

That was my guess but wanted to be sure. The only source for a swap harness using a stock PCM that I would suggest you AVOID is Swap Specialties. Multiple threads on here about issues with them. Far as I know, Holley is the only source for a Terminator harness. Be advised that it takes...

I forgot about the option to run a cable style TB with the Terminator. Can’t do that with the OEM computer. A cable style TB would be easier with the 904 as it needs a kick down setup of some type unless you run a full manual VB. But not impossible with the drive by wire TB either. When you...

I should add that I want cruise control and am working to get the PCM setup function at some point. Only reason I bring it up.

Not an expert but here are some thoughts. The ‘14 and older OEM computers don’t do any fan controls, but the ‘15+ can control a single fan. I am sure the Terminator does fan control, probably even dual fans. Not sure how easy a Terminator works with an SGE trans controller, if that is...

I ran mine for years with the seatbelt connection disconnected. Since then I have rewired my dash harness to use a different buzzer so it only buzzes with the ignition off and either the key in the switch or headlights on, when the door is open. I also removed the seatbelt interlock module and...

Perfect! I’d love an stl file. ABS?

I’ve got a ‘76 dash and harness in the garage and it didn’t have that bracket when I went to go look at it. Wonder if it was ‘75 and only early ‘76 that got the hinged bracket?

Did you replace the O2 sensor? Maybe I missed that? Not sure why it would go bad, but since it is a self learning system bad input would mess things up. So an O2 sensor that is reading lean maybe could result in the injectors going full open? Maybe the bad ground caused the system to go...

Valid point, the idea of my switch wearing out has crossed my mind as well. At the same time, not sure it is a huge issue. Worst case, it can’t be any worse than the contacts in a starter and those last for years. But a starter sees instant voltage at the contacts in the solenoid while most...

I run a battery disconnect from an RV and use a Viper alarm to connect and disconnect it using the door lock circuits. https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/parallax-battery-disconnect-relay-br100/ Looks like that one maybe be unavailable now though? You could use this one instead but the...

I would add that it seems like one issue is when the ignition circuit is powered by the alternator output because they are both on one side of a disconnect. As I understand it, the alternator will self power and also keep the motor running in that case, right? So the ignition and field circuit...

I'm no electrician, so I could be wrong, but isn't the continuous duty relay in this diagram going to drain the battery when the disconnect is on? Looks like the disconnect is what powers the relay to close, which means it is a draw, right?

The problem with all of these when used with the OEM fuel gauge is that the gauge reacts so slowly due to it's design that you have to be really patient and wait for the needle to settle before moving on to the next fuel level. And mine was backwards so full didn't read anything and empty...

I don’t really have any ideas other than when I did mine I had to do it a couple of times because the gauge reacted so slowly it had bad settings the first time. I started giving it a full minute or more to make sure my gauge was reading where I wanted it. I know mine has a function to go to...

Can't wait to see this in the car. Very cool.

I use a fob and it makes it kind of like most 90's cars anymore where you lock it as you walk away. If I ever put power door locks in the car, hopefully I can set it up to set the alarm and disconnect the battery all at the same time so I can lock it as I get out and not have to lock it as I...

My thought was that if there was anything hot under the hood, it could be used to bypass any kill switch you set up. So, for example, if the alternator wire is hot when the car is turned off (like it is stock), a wire from there to the ballast resistor and a quarter to cross the posts at the...

I played with similar ideas. Thought about a magnetic switch with a circuit that was open if the magnet wasn't in place. Something hidden next to the seat, and a fob that could be placed in the right spot when you got into the car kind of subtly. Then I decided that I didn't want to have to...

The thing is, if there is any power under the hood at all it only takes about 4 feet of wire to start the car unless it is something like removing the coil wire or similar. Doesn't mean it wouldn't slow someone down. They would probably need some time to figure it out unless they came knowing...

Pretty sure that's what the switch under the hood was for on the seat belt interlock. Turn the key on and then pop the hood and push the red button and the relay would latch and allow the start circuit to work without the seatbelts being latched. Turn the car off and the relay unlatched and...

Where do you see them for $50?