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Sure enough, quantity makes a huge difference. 30 brackets would be $41.25 or $21.30 each depending on where I had them machined. $639 for 15 pairs machined internationally isn't that big of an investment, better than I expected. But....I'm not willing to buy 15 sets and have them sit on the...

Out of curiosity, I worked up a bracket to fit the same Mercedes rotors as above but with my hubs (cut down rotors) to mount the Viper caliper I have. Using a 2"x1.25" bar, 6061-T6 material and machining done by Xometry which includes tapping 2 of the holes, the quote came out to $131.24 each...

Yep, I see that. And honestly when I first looked at the idea of using an SP or GT caliper and discovered I couldn't stay with 17" wheels, I dropped it. And it sat for close to 2 years before I looked at it again and decided I was ok with 18" wheels. I like the proportions of 18" wheels but...

In regards to ear mount calipers being difficult to make work, here are layouts for a Scat Pack caliper and a '07-14 GT500 caliper with a 13" rotor. I don't believe here is a way either could be done. The only way I could make either of these ear mount calipers work was to step up to a 14"...

The image of the spindle I posted just a bit ago and the machined bracket from last week is from Fusion 360. Not real experienced in it, but I am getting better. I usually do my layouts in 2D and then loft them in 360 so I can export an stl file for 3D printing. Haven't done any real...

Here's another way to side step the offset issue on ear mount calipers; build your own spindle. :rofl:

I agree the radial mount calipers are much easier to get located correctly both at the circumference and centered over the rotor thickness. But I'm not sure I agree they are simple or easy for someone without their own machine shop to make. I can't imagine trying to build something like you...

Surprisingly, Xometry quoted me $85 each for the above CNC part out of 6061-T6. Better than I expected.

Another idea on how to do this if someone had access to a milling machine. Needs some refinement, specifically to remove the pointy remnants. It was just a quick sketch to see if it even looked feasible. 3D printing one to see how well it bolts up.

I don’t get that. If someone doesn’t see the need or doesn’t want them, then keep your trap shut and don’t buy them. The “hard to sell” part is different, must be a small group that were interested, but the arguing? Completely unnecessary.

Here is the build thread. Starting a BB Duster project

Great to see are still around!

Gotcha.

What motor are you swapping in that you needed the HDK?

Rotor size is your lever arm. Like a 6" ratchet compared to an 8" ratchet, there is a noticeable difference. It all works together and a bigger piston may have a greater impact than a small increase in rotor diameter, not really certain. Just saying that I think rotor diameter matters more...

Absolutely, no argument. I should have added that I wasn't saying it was a definitive answer, only another data point. Way too many discrepancies in the factory data to say anything is for sure based on something like this.

That a pretty cool little tidbit there.

The NVMA specifications only list one front track width for a '74 as well. https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/ama/_1974AutomobileManufacturersAssociation-10.shtml?load_img=4

I pulled the bulkhead connector from the dash side and swapped the 2 yellow wires in it to bypass mine. This effectively connects the starter switch directly to the starter relay. The OEM wiring has the yellow wire split and go to the interlock module under the dash and through the bulkhead...

Based on the spaghetti I see, I would be careful about trusting that switch is original and/or wired correctly. I agree with 67Dart273, looks like the seatbelt interlock switch. In '74 those weren't wired into the proportioning valve switch circuit though, so no idea what is going on. Can you...

Pictures? :)

If you end up running 20" HC wheels, you could also run the 6 piston setup using these plates. The 4 piston Scat Pack setup and at least the 15.4" 6 piston HC brakes interchange as both models use the same spindles on the LX/LC cars. Mopar changed the HC brakes to a 15.7" rotor recently, but I...

Sweet! First I've seen of anything on that project. What front suspension is that? Or is that not your project, just visuals for what your goal is? In regards to the bolt pattern, here is some info I found while doing this swap. Not definitive, but interesting...

Just checked and I could re-order the plates without plating for $70.46 before tax. That's almost $45 cheaper than with the plating. You could also do just the main support plates and figure out spacers on your own. That would be $39.86 before tax. I think shipping is free, but probably best...

I did confirm that this setup would work with an 18x9 +24mm FR500 wheel from American Muscle. That was a bit of a fiasco as their website shows the wheel as a +30mm offset, while the wheel is clearly stamped 24mm. So I ended up sending it back and buying an 18x9 +35mm forgestar F14 open box...

I have no plans to market or sell anything. Not opposed to sharing the files, but don't like the idea of making a business out of it. And I haven't bolted them on the car yet either. I wanted to find a wheel that would work and that took some time and summer projects have gotten in the way...

Less. But how much will depend on how big the cam is.

I got into a long winded discussion on a Challenger forum about this exact thing end of last year. Guy posted a YT video on why bigger tires will stop faster but bigger brakes wont. I agreed with some of the video but the reality was that a 2015 Scat Pack stopped shorter than an a 2015 R/T...

Absolutely. Completely agree.

Yep, been many a heated argument over that topic. I am one that feels that a wider tire gives better traction but their theory is that they should be the same. Makes no sense, I think there are missing variables in the theory like the fact that it is a soft(er) material on a rough surface...