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Thanks Skykeith, You freaked me out there for a minute! I was wondering how I missed that! That is just some corrosion not arcing. Take it easy and thanks again. Matt

Redfish, thanks for the info I'll check those items out. I have seen some clusters and gauges on ebay any other places that you know of to get them? Thanks, Matt

Yeah I pulled them, still blowing the fuse. I checked for resistance from the limiter connector to the cluster housing and got .002 ohms. So looks like my short is in the circuit board. Do you know anyone who sells circuit boards and gauges? Thanks for the help. Matt

Nukebass, thanks man. Yeah my gauges are bad for sure. I'm just stuck my only guess would be maybe a short in the circuit board? ugh!!! ???

Anyone have any ideas? Would really appeciate some advice. Thanks, Matt

OK, tested power to pin #1 disconnected from cluster got 12V. Plugged back into cluster turned key on fuse blew. Removed connector and retested no voltage. So problem is in cluster. Replaced fuse and disconnected head lamp switch, turned on key fuse blew. So problem is not headlamp switch...

Redfish, yeah I noticed that on my diagram. The connector on the drawing was rotated 180 degrees. Thanks, Matt

So if I disconnect the main connector on the cluster, replace my fuse turn ignition on and check for power at the #1 pin. If I have power there then my problem is on the cluster side, if I don't then it's on the harness side. Make sence? Matt

Thanks man but there is not much back there to miss wire. I downloaded a manual and I am studying now, hope I can get smart on this stuff. Thanks again for all the help, Matt

Been looking at the diagram, your right very confusing. Far as I can make out the power comes to the guages and lights via the main harness connector I believe the 12 O'clock pin or #1 pin. Am I crazy? Matt

I did look at all the bulbs thought that might be it too, no luck they all look good. Also checked the connectors from the harness all looked good also. I just know this is probably something stupid and I'm just missing it. To bypass the guages because of the circuit board I guess I just have to...

73 should be about the same. I just checked the amp meter for power on both sides with a test light so I'm not sure. If all the power for the guages comes in from the headlamp switch then maybe my headlamp switch has a short causing the fuse to blow and guages and lights to not work? Is that...

I'm not sure if it has a short. That is why I'm wondering if it should have power to both sides. Yeah I gave up on auto zone the parts are cheesy and never fit right. Thanks for the help. Matt

I pulled the cluster completely out to give it the once over. I tightened all the terminals. Only real issue I see is a corrosion on the head lamp switch. Am I missing anything? Again should I have voltage on both sides on my amp meter? Seems I read I should not. Thanks, Matt

Did I read on here that I should NOT have voltage on both sides of my amp meter? I do, what does it mean? Thanks, Matt

So your saying that the fuse should have nothing to do with the limiter? When that fuse is blown I get no power to the limiter. I attached pics, one of the ground wire. The other of the new limiter. It has an extra prong I'm pointing to whats it for? Thanks, Matt

I ran the ground wire to the cluster housing not a ground copper trace. Feeling kinda dumb..... So I'm guessing my ground sucks and is not the source of my short? I just want to say thanks again Redfish you have been a big help. Matt

Ok so I went to check the limiter output to the guages and I found I keep blowing #6 3 amp fuse. I thought it just powered the brake and oil light set but as soon as I replaced it and pugged the limiter in it blew again....ugh. So I'm guessing I have a short somewhere? Anyone had this happen...

It shouldn't be an issue to check that with the cluster hanging should it? Thanks for the quick reply

Still working at it, I pulled the cluster back out today and checked the voltage into the limiter it was at 12. Checked the ground I put on it was good. For the ground I just removed a screw from the back of the cluster and ran a wire to the dash. Is that good enough, is there a prefered way...

Put in the ground wire, still nothing. The only power I have to the cluster is turn signal lights and the amp meter. ??? Any ideas? I need to check power to the regulator perhaps. I should have 12 volts at the ign slot, will I get that with the cluster out? Thanks all, Matt

Thanks Redfish, I'm going to put the ground wire on today. Hope that will take care of it. Matt

Great info thanks Redfish. Yeah I checked it cluster in. The ground wire is a good idea I'll put one in in the morning. So the black wire goes in the same slot as the horizonal (ign) prong? I really should have looked closer before pulling it out....dumb. Thanks for the help, Matt

I had already ordered a regulator by the time I got the info on the "modern" style....damn Put the new one in and still no temp or fuel guages. There was a black wire that I believe plugs in behind it and along side the horizonal prong (is that correct?) That is where I plugged it in at...

Awesome info guys thanks. Matt

Cool thanks, any idea where to get one? Matt

Hi Guys, both the engine temp and fuel guage are inop, from reading on here seems to be the Cluster Voltage regulator. During replacement I want to lube the speedo cable. Is it best to pull the whole cluster to replace it? The car is a 75 Dart Sport. Thanks all, Matt