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Although he does say it's a mild hydraulic roller. 4200 might be a little high? Agree with above, need the cam specs and other info...

What rear gears?? Tell me more about those "drag radios", too :p

Clutchflite? :p

OP, read this again. I've seen this many times - all you get from going too deep is more engine noise and worse fuel mileage. My big-cam 451, 4-speed, 295/50R15 tires, likes the 3.91 for mixed use. 3050 rpm at 60 mph is tolerable since it's not daily driven, and I can live with 9 mpg highway...

Looks good except for that over-polished flexplate :poke:

Of course... D = Drive, then throw it in R = Race :lol: Manual transmissions forever!

Why exactly? The clunky noises, or unpredictability of lock/unlock, or something else?

Oh yeah, sure... :realcrazy: That might quiet the howling from the worn gear teeth, but the pinion bearings were surely trashed and the sawdust won't help them. Also I suspect your model A didn't have quite the hp that my big-cam 451 does :poke:

I was doing some tune-up work on my slant six in an apartment parking lot way back in 1981... a guy came over and asked for help with his car. He was trying to change the oil for the first time, took out a plug and drained it into a pan, but said the dipstick was still full before he put any oil...

Well... I sent the chunk off to Cass, and he rebuilt it last Friday. Fortunately I noticed on the invoice that there had been a screw-up and someone put 3.55 gears in it when it came in with, and was supposed to leave with, 3.91 :eek: It was pulled off the loading dock before UPS came, luckily...

Wouldn't that be the other way around if you wanted the wheels in front turning faster than the rears for a given engine RPM? (4.10 in the back and 5.13 in the rear)?

Well, you are on the left coast. So coast to the left and accelerate to the right. Right? :D

Yes, but make sure the label on the bottle is facing left instead of right when you pour it in...

I appreciate the offer, but it wouldn't feel right ;) It's not like I'm going to be homeless or hungry, after all. I am seriously considering just shipping it off to Cass and having him work his magic (again). There are just so many ways I could get it wrong and end up with whiny gears or...

Already heard back from Cass. Guess he does read his emails on the weekend :) He also says the sure-grip is probably ok, but I do need new gears. (And bearings of course). Looks like I will be learning how to set up gears for Christmas :D

Thanks guys for the support, but I'm still disgusted with myself for making such an expensive mistake. Although it could have been worse (like on the pavement at 60 mph!) Here's what the ring gear looks like. Definite wear front and back. In fact it looks like the pattern slid right off the...

I screwed up big-time... While building my Dart over a 22 year period off & on, somehow I'd forgotten to put the gear oil in my new Dr. Diff 8-3/4, and it locked up yesterday after driving less than five miles on straight dirt roads at 25-35 mph :( Got it towed home, pulled the wheels, drums...

What's funny about a simple mistake?

I seem to recall reading that the magnet in the speedo can become weak... think that makes it read high too. Could send the speedo to a shop and have them check it out and remagnetize if needed...

I'll consider buying a GV when they make an adapter that bolts onto an A-body A833 without rebuilding the entire trans into a B-body mainshaft...

It hardly has "no meaning at all". As I already said, the overall ratio from the pedal to the clutch disc separation is determined by multiplying the ratio set by each piece of the system. The Z-bar just introduces another ratio since it probably isn't exactly 1:1. If you are brave enough to...

First part is correct. Second is not. Moving the push rod closer to the pedal decreases the ratio (nominally 6:1) which moves more fluid from the master for a given movement of the pedal! It also increases the effort required due to the same reduction in leverage. As YR mentioned, I had a...

A long time ago I converted a Valiant with 318-A904 and a 7-1/4" rear, 2.76 gears. First I put in a 383 (Street Hemi grind cam) and a 4-speed (2.66 1st) while looking for a complete 8-3/4 with 3.23 sure-grip, so I was driving around for a while with the 2.76 and stock skinny tires. Other than...

That would be weird, to try and start the car and have the crank just spin 'round with no compression, because someone removed the pistons and rods secretly... :D

I would still be very wary of using an easy-out... I have found the hard way that if the torque applied was sufficient to twist the bolt head off, the easy-out will also snap. Love the "refuse to break bolts"... let me know how that's working out :D

I learned my lesson about Easy-Outs a long time ago (two lies in one; they are not easy and it won't come out). What happens is that the very hard and brittle easy-out snaps off in the hole and then you're screwed (pun intended). Someday I want to get a set of left-hand drills, I think that's...

1972 Dart (think it's a 111" Swinger) 451 (stroker 400) A-833 8-3/4" 7260-7290 cross U-joint front, 7290 rear DS length center-center 52-3/4"

Sorry for him... but I take it he did not have a driveshaft loop installed? If that's not a ringing (implicit) recommendation for one, I don't know what is. I've put one on every big-block 4-speed A-body. And a scattershield.