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I have a spare set of NOS mushroom lifters too... but if I ever wipe the cam, I probably will also spend the $$$ and go to roller.

OP, this is a 1 year anniversary :poke: did you ever get that custom grind? How does it run?

No need for name-calling... I make it a point to respond with information instead :) I'm not too old to learn something new, maybe the others are too!

What about cruise and WOT? My low-speed cruise AFR seems to be a bit leaner too (since I'm on the t-slot and there is a significant contribution from the idle circuit). Haven't had a chance to drive out to the highway and do some short blasts...

It's not too big for my 10.3:1 CR with the iron heads, or soon to be 10.6:1 with the aluminum heads. With the four-speed, 3.91 gears and 26.7" tall tires, anyway. Does just fine on the street, thank you :p I'm sure your combo runs well on the dyno and on the strip, although that 850 is a little...

I think you're blowing smoke up my butt. :p Remember, this is a street-driven car on pump gas, sometimes in hot weather. I would rather give up a little power than run the absolute max timing and risk knocking under full throttle at high rpm. That tends to be hard on ring lands and piston tops...

In a word... success :D Today I received the 18/9 cam plate...decided to take the old 26/13 and weld up its slots on the inside, and grind them back out to .390 length. Unfortunately when I put it together, it was obvious that there was too much preload on the (gold) spring and not enough slot...

I've been chewing this over for a while... did some more reading (including my thread in the Elect/Ignition forum from Feb. 2020). Since I have a high idle, I need to "cut off the bottom" (as Mattax has said) of the advance curve. That means not using the FBO plate, but instead welding the...

Thanks. I drive it on the street, so I need vacuum advance to have some semblance of fuel economy, and cooling ;) Tonight I experimented some more... took the dist apart, left the super-light spring in place but removed the heavy loop spring and used the OEM blue spring. Added the FBO plate to...

I have done plenty of experimenting on the idle already. The idle speed has to be 1100-1200 rpm since the cam has so much overlap, and a 950 cfm carb - because the vacuum signal is low. Whenever the rpm drops below that, it slowly "spirals in" with lower vac, lower rpm, lower vac... until it...

Finally had a chance to work on it... very strange findings. I had another vac can (9L, or 18 degrees) and tested that with a Mityvac hand pump. Sure enough, with the adjustment full CW, it barely moved at 5", about 10 degrees at 8", and full 18 deg at 12". :) So I removed the existing can (8L)...

But you can also look at it this way... the idle, no-load timing would be excessive when the engine is loaded at launch. So you want the timing to drop back to centrifugal-only as the load comes on :)

I think the last part of that sentence is a little typo'ed? So why don't you like VA extra timing at idle? :popcorn:

The number on the arm is the max advance in distributor degrees, i.e. half the crank degrees. So a "9L" can will advance 18 degrees when fully in. At least for Mopar cans. I've heard (from other reputable sources) that screwing in the adjustment to the stop should also start it moving at 5"...

Only the single superlight spring is holding the weights back initially. So, at a few hundred rpm, the weights advance until the loop on the heavy spring engages, which prevents further advance until about 1400 rpm which is above my idle speed. :) That loop happens to be 11 degrees, which is...

Thanks for actually addressing my question, Rat ;) Yes, I'm aware of the unstable idle problem that would result from advance starting to come in at idle speed. That's another reason I used the heavy OEM spring. As I explained, I can't start on initial over 22 without kickback and I do not...

Well, I didn't want to deviate too far from the design parameters. I can always change the installed centerline later. The Direct Connection catalog listed the powerband as 3400-7000, presumably for a 440, so a hair lower for my 451. Any thoughts on the timing? :poke:

I can't recall offhand, but with the 98 degrees (seat-to-seat) overlap of this cam, it was remarkably low - something like 120 psi! :eek: Edit: Yes, it's degreed in, 107 installed at 105. It's thoroughly broken in now with 700 miles, so I could check it again this weekend but it's likely to not...

I think my timing curve isn't quite optimal, but I'd like some recommendations. My combo: 451, 10.3:1 hand-ported iron heads, QF with BLP baseplate 950 double-pumper with 1" open spacer on Edelbrock RPM, .652/[email protected] cam, premium pump gas. 4-speed (2.66 low), 3.91 rear (3000 rpm @ 60 mph)...

There is also a finite delay through any electronic ignition from the trigger edge to the coil firing. As the RPM goes up, obviously the time per revolution goes down, and that delay is then a larger number of crank degrees. I think YR posted some figures a while back, some boxes were 1 degree...

Got any flow numbers on those 516's?

Have you considered looking for a cracked vacuum cap? :lol:

And what's your definition of a "street car"? :rolleyes: Heeeere we go... Many people would not consider my cam streetable (1100-1200 rpm idle, 8" vacuum) but I don't have any problem driving it around town and on club cruises. 9 mpg highway and a 10 gal fuel cell does limit the length of trips...

If I find that I'm using more than those two 10 lb bottles this year, I'll look into it :) But I doubt I will use it very often - there is no shortage of power on motor alone! :steering:

Finally got past the holidays, a recurrence of my ulcer, AND a root canal! So yesterday afternoon... drove 40 miles to the shop who'd underfilled my nitrous bottles. Actually to his home/garage where he keeps the mother bottle. Turns out he's a well-known racer on one of the Street Outlaws TV...

I once had my '81 BMW 7-series (factory turbo with a few mods, 3.5 liter six running 15 psi boost, 3.45:1 gears with an OD 5th gear) up to 145 mph. It was still climbing briskly when I ran out of road and nerve. The wind noise was tremendous. But what decided me to lift was that I only had about...

I paid $130 ($65 for each filled 10 lb bottle). I received 9.5 lb in one, and 7 lb in the other identical bottle done at the same time with the same pump. So it's the different story, unfortunately. At least it was only at worst a $22.75 lesson on where not to go again.

Looks like I got ripped off. I weighed the spare bottle, clearly marked on the original NOS label as 24 lb, 12 oz when full with 10 lb. On my digital postal scale it only weighs 21 lb 10 oz! So there's only 7 lb in it. The one in the car is 24 lb 4 oz, so he "only" shorted me half a pound on...

Never mind, found one :)

Can anyone recommend a fitting for my nitrous bottle that has two 1/8" NPT female ports? The bottle fitting and main line are #4 AN. I want to plumb in a pressure gauge and an adjustable pressure switch for heater control in the trunk. There are plenty of fittings with single ports like this...