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I had that problem when I put a new windshield seal in my '65 Ford truck (same type of mounting and sealing). So I stuck the nozzle of the butyl cartridge between the seal and glass, and squirted more in for several inches either side of the leak. Sealed it right up. My favorite butyl sealant is...

I use "Grease & Wax Remover" to remove the old sticky butyl... my windshield gasket doesn't have a locking strip, so I roped it in. It's pretty easy but you do need a helper to apply a little pressure from the outside and pat the glass into place.

I bought an AAR(Stinger) Fiberglass hood with the scoop already molded in. Took a fair amount of weight off the front wheels compared to the steel hood, too :)

I'm an MD not a DDS :D but my dentist uses a right-angle drill :p

If your hood weighs 28 lb and is about four feet long, the push required to hold it up with a lever arm of four inches (1/3 of a foot) is about 12 times 28,, divide by 2 since all the weight is not at the front, divided by 2 for each strut, or 84 lb each... does that sound like it's in the ballpark?

How did you drill and install the lower strut mounting point with the fender on? Not a lot of room to work in there...

I just got a six-pack hood from AAR/Stinger and it bolted up to the original hinges and hood latch with no trouble at all. However, the lighter springs I bought turned out to be WAY too light (I told the seller it was a 28 lb bolt-on hood, not a flimsy race-weight type) so now I either have to...

I've read that there is a wide range of quality between Maaco shops (some are good, some are like yours). Best thing to do is go to the local one and see what kind of work is being turned out! (I might have gone that route but it's 100 miles to the nearest one).

That looks nice... did they do anything but mask and spray? What kind of paint... how much did they charge?

I tried the first route... learned quickly that there is an art to painting a whole car, and I don't have the talent. In fact I still have a rotator cuff problem from sanding all that crap over and over again. The prep & body work is the most expensive and time-consuming part, so do as much of...

But there also have to be nanowelders or there will be big holes left behind... :poke:

The paint is about 2 months old, base/clear. Still heat it?

Thanks for the tips. I am not using the trim. That car has way too much chrome for me already, but it looks "wrong" to leave it off in many places... Chip Foose likely has a LOT more experience using a bat (or roller) than I do :p The tightest spot is always somewhere, of course. With my...

True... although if I screw it up, it'll cost even more to have a pro clean up my mess! I'm also thinking of checking with the local body shops for their price...

I want to fit max width rear tires under my '72 Swinger. With the right backspacing, 325/50R15 should be doable with the spring relocation and minitubs. It's had the rear quarters replaced in the past, and I have learned that the replacement quarters have a wider fender lip than OE. Pic is a...

Left... does it really matter which one though? Unless there's a different adhesive for each side of the car :rolleyes:

On my '72, the door glass also has a chrome piece which makes contact with the weatherstrip on the mating piece attached to the quarter glass. One of mine is somewhat loose... is there supposed to be trim adhesive or some other goop to secure it to the quarter glass?

Thanks. Yeah, it looks a bit strange with the gasket outside the trim ;) The gasket lip does fit over the headliner in front to secure it. Just not on the A-pillar trim I guess!

I cut and removed the old gasket, smoothed the remaining butyl on the pinch weld, put on the new gasket. Then I started at the right lower corner with the glass sitting on the lower gasket run, then worked it into the low side, started up the right side, across the top, then came up from the...

Do you mean one left/right side? Wouldn't it be simpler to set the glass in the bottom of the gasket, then work the sides and top in? On the other hand, I just messed up a $64 gasket on my '72 hardtop because it got too tight along the top after I put in the bottom and both sides. The 3M...

OP, did you get your windshield installed successfully? I tried to do mine this afternoon with 8509 between the gasket and pinchweld, and Windo-Weld (butyl rope caulk) in the gasket groove, and ended up tearing the gasket :( Just too tight that way. Should have used a smaller bead of 8509...

Have you tried Ace Hardware? They have a LOT of odd screws and other fasteners. I seem to recall this is something like a #6 x 3/8" screw with a #8 head?

Isn't there an improvement in intake air temps even with a shorter or non-sealed scoop? There must be some difference from breathing hot underhood air vs. cooler ambient air...

You do have to punch at least the middle hole so the shoulders on the nylon sliders can go in (and the pin connecting them)... The originals on my '72 did not have all three holes punched, but the sliders (either from wear or design) are slightly thinner too. If I do this again I'll punch three...

Classic Industries and others sell them, but be sitting down when you see the price! :realcrazy: 1966-1974 All Makes All Models Parts | MN3104 | 1968-74 A-Body; 1966-70 B-Body Front Door Glass Channel Seals | Classic Industries

When I needed to vacuum out some small places, I duct-taped a length of 1" heavy-wall vinyl tubing to the end of my shop-vac hose. Have you tried something similar, or even smaller diameter?

I see. I think this car has way too much chrome trim to begin with... it definitely doesn't need another piece on the door. Rather than add trim to the door without holes, I plan to fill the holes on this door and have the area repainted. Someday!

Interesting idea, thanks for the suggestion. Can the clips be removed from the cardboard panel without damaging it? One possible problem though - the trim panel would need to be "stuck" directly to the door, so that area would not be protected by the vapor barrier. I plan to coat the edges of...

Thanks... I will drill the holes for the panel clips, then it's close enough to a 72 door :) (The connector to the key lock on this door was different too, instead of the round rod on the '72 it has a flat dog-leg link. I just had to improvise a small shoulder bolt to connect it without any...

Except that the holes are on the outside of the window... maybe a chrome strip?