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Doing the same thing right now myself.

Agreed I put in a 14x32 slick on my 68 dart. Had to back halve the car and take 3 inches from the front of the wheel well. The body work was done nicely and I rebuilt a new inner fender lip. If I did not tell anyone they were cut, you cannot tell.

Right that's what I am trying to find out, but he's not sayin for some reason.

Right now go back to post #2 and tell me what you see. There is no Caltrac transfer force bar mounting bracket in that pic or the pic on his website. Does he also sell the Caltrac bracket to weld on to his shock plate?

I asked him to explain it and he never answered my question. I too may be interested in his shock brackets, but I may run Caltracs as well and am not sure how he accomplished both features there.

I cannot get an explanation how the Caltrac bar is attached to his shock mount. There is no mounting bracket showing in his shock bracket picture.

Look for a 72 duster with disc brakes. I I am not mistaken the ball joint for those brakes is unique.

Well possibly, but it's also possible that the gap between the clip and the bar is intentional to allow for expansion. As some of the posted pictures show, Chrysler left quite a space there, so it must not be an issue if everything else is installed correctly.

Most of what I said you just repeated. I agree the adjustable strut locates the arm, that's how I did it too. I agree the torsion bar clips do not hold the arm and that they usually do not even touch the torsion bar. Whenever I have removed a torsion bar I have always found the best way to get...

Wow quite the debate went on here. I think both of these guys are partially right. I do not agree that the factory lca bushing holds the arm in place, but I do not believe that the strut does either. IMHO I think they were on the right track about the torsion bar, but not the clips. As was...

I am pretty sure I can see gaps in your upper control arm eccentric bolts. You have an aftermarket control arm. Looks to me that the bolts may be tight, but there is not enough thread to clamp the control arm. Even the alignment shop cannot fix that. Looks too me you assembled something...

This is my friends hemi ls car. It runs 9.20s at 147mph 1.26 60ft Look closely at the k member. Looks the same as qa1 to me.

I cannot remember all the reasons. I just know it will work on the later years, you just have to change a couple things.

Since when is round tubing weak. There is only tubing on the front mounting points. The back ones are very similar to stock. The design is to make room for headers and big oil pans which it does very well. Previously I had broken the passenger side mount on the frame off several times.

I just checked moogs website and the pitman arm and the idler arm Are a different part number on 73-up

I believe on there website it says you can use it, but you have to change over to the earlier idlers etc, pitman arm and so on. I have not done one though. Give them a call.

I used these cut to length. I actually wanted mine slightly taller to keep my oil pan off the ground in case of wheel stand.

After talking to rms he convinced me to go to 68-72 B body drum brake spindle. They can be had cheap as no one wants them. If it is a dedicated drag car, wilwood makes a drag brake kit for this spindle and this spindle uses the large ball joint. Since you like the heim joints, qa1 also makes a 1...

Glad to hear the heim joints hold up. I have gone to heim joints on my entire front end and am about to install nylon lower control arm bushings. I am after maximum weight transfer. IMHO stock rubber bushings restrict the movement of the suspension. My suspension never moved as freely as it does...

I have the hemi joint type on my drag car, but I do not know that I would use them on a street car. Other than that I said what you said. Urethane strut bushings keep the wheels straight. A street car does not need that much suspension travel. All the rubber bushings everywhere in the front...

Make sure to put in some poly urethane strut rod bushing. These will make your toe in setting stay toed in and make the car go straight. The rubber ones are too soft.

Where can you buy a +1 inch idler arm. Never heard of that.

Any chance you could post a pic of the bent pitman arm. Years ago I used to hear of people heating and bending their pitman arm to improve toe pattern. Do you have any before and after pics?

Well I have installed the moog idler, so I figure that is not the problem.

Actually is that not a pic of the idler. We are going to measure the pitman correct?

Ok thanks I am off to work will measure tonight and post pics. Thanks for your help

Can you describe how you would measure it so I can do it the same way.

Actually I just noticed the bottom picture below showing the stock k member being parallel to the centreline. Why would qa1 alter the steering geometry? I was planning to use the old milodon super stock oil pan. I hope I do not have a problem with the centreline going through the oil pan tube.

Well judging by that picture on qa1 site that is clearly not square with the tubes on the k member. Maybe because the stock k member being curved on the inside I just never looked at how parallel it was to the centreline. With the qa1 being straight tubes makes it more noticeable to see, but may...

Yes that's pretty much what I see. I do not recall it looking like that on the stock k member. But I do know that on my stock k member I had to put a lot of shims to get the toes pattern right for drag racing. Maybe qa1 corrected the geometry..