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No spring. Just the one in master cylinder. I personally would move the brake light switch out of the way to see if it’s the issue.

Sounds like the piston in the master cylinder isn’t fully returning to expose compensating ports. Is there anything not allowing the pedal to return fully, brake light switch? When it happens try looking at piston on master cylinder from under dash to see if it’s traveling back to retainer...

Maybe try having less line extended past die on first process. That being said that material from my experience is soft and it could be just distorting when the die puts pressure on it at the start of the forming process, kind of forcing it back into die until it starts to fold. Just a guess...

Do you have any areas where any of the brake components are exposed or close to sources of heat? Headers or exhaust? Could be the fluid is getting hot and expanding causing it to puke out of the reservoir.

The piston in the master cylinder could be hanging and not allowing fluid to return to the reservoir thru the ports for the piston after pedal application. By pulling pedal back you allowed the ports to be exposed and the pressure/fluid to return in the reservoir. Could be an issue or may have...

Yes mine are the same way, even with Córdoba 11.75 disc. I don’t worry as it makes it easier to remove them and they’re covered by hub caps. The covers I used are “new” replacement. If they’re visible you might be able to shorten the part that goes into the rotor.

Power or manual brakes? Assuming the brake system is the original single pot master cylinder and it’s still drums on all 4 corners. When you bled the back brakes what was the fluid flow while bleeding? Less on right rear than drivers? It could be the port on distribution block off master...

Towards booster. Also make sure the pushrod that goes into the M/C is adjusted per the factory service manual before installing. It makes a difference as far as compensation ports being exposed properly etc. and will lead to issues with the brake system operation if it’s off too far. I don’t...

Try these guys. Been saving link but havent needed one. 1970 - 1976 Mopar Combination Brake Valve Seal Kit | Muscle Car Research LLC

Depending on frame ties. My Demon has home made ties. I kept the park brake system and it works with the frame ties. I’ve had a few instances in my life where I’ve used the park brakes due to brake issues. Brakes and tires are two areas I want to be top notch. I use the park brake every time my...

I’d have them turned if they’re thick enough. The pitting towards the center hub is an area the pads haven’t rode

In a former life we would put new drums and rotors on the brake lathe. They actually had a little extra material to true them up out of the box. I’m sure the quality of the parts today hasn’t improved. Sounds to me like you’ve got a disc or drum that’s Not true. Only one way to find out and...

This what you’re looking for? Home :: Brakes :: Rear :: Rear Flex Hose to Hard Line Brass Tee There are 2 different styles shown.

Gotta say it “sounds” like you’ve got enough heat for tires to work. If it’s launching hard without spinning. Do as RRR said and let it pull itself out. Maybe not sit in water box but roll thru get some water on tires and do your burnout just forward of the box. As for Smokey burnout, some think...

10.95" Front Disc Brake Kit (Stage 1) Description says this is the largest set up that will work with 14” wheels.

I have this set up from harbor freight that I use for a lot of things. If you have your own press you mess around with different projects like me they come in handy. Can sometimes catch them on sale and get coupons. Front Wheel Bearing Adapters

Thanks I’ll add that to the history folder. I knew there was something with them, that’s why I stated it.

I believe any that use the factory “style” disc would. So any of the reproduction kits. When you get into wilwood etc I have no idea. It is something that’s inherent on the factory stuff.

They sure look like the 73+ disc brake set up from an a body. But there are other factory set ups that will also work. Yes the disc brakes did increase the track width front to rear with the front being wider. Should be the 10.87” diameter rotor. Here’s an article that may help you further. It...

Don’t know if this helps you. I put 11.75” from a 75 Córdoba on my Demon. The wheels are summit racing aluminum 15x7 4” BS. They’re very snug to the caliper but do fit. I used all factory parts so I don’t know if there’s a difference. You could also talk to Cass at Dr Diff. He’s very knowledgeable.

If I recall correctly, the pushrod that comes out of the booster into the master cylinder has an adjustment. I don't know the spec off the top of my head. Is there a hex drive on that piston from the booster? I would think the spec would be in the FSM.

My advice is to call Cass at dr diff. Guy is very well versed on the Mopars and probably will be able to set you up with all you need. DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components

Yes, I found a reproduction bracket (don't recal where AMD?). I welded it to the front spring relocation bracket. I would route the rear cables and weld the bracket where the back cables end. May have been this one. It's been a while but I believe the a and b body were the same. 70 1970 Dodge...

I don't think the 10.8" rotors came on the Cordobas, so those rotors and caliper brackets are the 11 3/4" setup, I've got them on my Demon. You will have to run at least a 15" wheel.

If the lines and caliper are new, make sure the hole in the bleeder screw is drilled all the way thru to allow fluid to pass.

Ok I don't want to spread bad information, I have seen an adjustment on the push rod from the booster but I just went thru my FSM and I don't see a spec. I have done this on a B body and the spec was in an old Motors manual. So you could maybe call Cass at Dr Diff and see what he says. Also...

When it locks up have you opened the bleeders to see if the pressure lets off? If so is it one wheel or both? Did you compare the rebuilt master cylinder to the old one and did you check the depth of the hole in the piston where the pushrod from the booster goes to see if it was the same? There...

If your sure it's coming from the front, possibly rotor contacting dust shield? Left and right turn loads wheel bearings differently. When you use brakes taking play out of wheel bearing. Just a thought.

Call Cass at Dr Diff. He's a very knowledgeable and helpful individual. Explain what you've got going on and listen to what he says. He will get you on the right track. Also agree on the bedding of the pads. Keep in mind some of the friction material is "race only" and requires heat before it...

I know you said everything is new Are the drums? If everything else is good, and you are using old drums my thought is to swap the drums side to side and see if the problem follows the drum. If the drum diameter is over the max with the way the brakes adjust it could be allowing the adjuster to...