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I’ve got a 71 340 unstamped warranty block, and a 73 340, both standard. If I sell they wouldn’t be cheap.

Yep, not really worth milling stock sb mopar open chamber heads more than about .030 max. Even NA.. This is just my opinion of course…

Nope, this is what I have heard from guys going really fast with stock parts .

i wouldn't go to far milling the open chamber X or J heads, i hear if you don't have at least .100 between the "quench" area and the piston if effects the flame travel..

20 psi at hot idle is fine

Probably around 425 hp without knowing compression and head flow numbers. IF you built the car correctly then you put a higher stall converter in if it’s an auto, AND a performance oriented gear ratio which would allow you to use a 750/800/or even a 950hp carb for even more horsepower and the...

Heavily worked 71 manifold

Factory underrated all 340’s at 275hp the 4 speed cam, the t-quad with the better intake in 71, AVS 340’s around 300hp, 71 340’s closer to 315 and 6 pack a little more. NHRA pegged the actual HP back in the day. 340’s and Hemis were underrated, 383, 440, and 440 + 6 were a lot closer.

And the 71 340 with the 800 cfm t-quad makes more HP than the 625 AVS, OH…. and the 340’s with the 1350 cfm Holley 6 pack ( 950 actual cfm) make even a little more !!

I’m going to make you an offer you can’t refuse.. Swing by and pick up my 750 Holley competition #0-937 9 dp with annular boosters and choke horn milled. You can try it out this summer.

Yes. I’m going to shot for about 89% of the seat width.

Well I think this is about done!! I’m running a 6 pack intake so if I can get these to go near 240cfm at 500/550 lift with a 2.02 valve I’ll be happy. Now to start the other 7 cyl.

Yep, I’d have a pair of those rectangle chunks of aluminum on my motor especially if I wasn’t going for stock appearing !

A little closer, man is this labor intensive.

Got rid of the guide tail. Still a little work to do narrowing down the guide.

still plugging away, the chambers are done, hand deshroud, intake guides milled down about .200, exhaust about .030. Exhaust bowl blended, still need to work around the guide boss and profile the roof hump. How much can I knock down the hump?? I’m thinking only around .010 to .020 after knocking...

That T-quad and manifold is a big advantage, but you know that I’m sure.

Yes I’m interested in flo also.

Hi Pat, yes I will, but that area is usually the lowest on the list. Most of the flow gains on these heads as I understand it are guide, bowl, and chamber along with a good valve job. These are still at 1.88 so I’m going to ruff everything in then send to machine shop to cut 2.02 size, then...

As usual a year later back to work !!! All guides have been cut down about .200”, the fel-pro 1008 gasket is close so not a whole lot to de-shroud mostly the slope towards the plug side . I also softened the divot around the spark plug.

Nice lope, when I had a 4bbl 850 it was happy at. Now with a mechanical 6 pack 1,000 seems better

Comp solid 520/540. 244/252 @.050

I’m running 11.2cr 200/205 cranking psi on a 360, with home ported J,s what do they flow?? I don’t know probably not much 230’ish.. so for an ill flowing head you better run some decent compression to squeeze what little you have in that cyl !! Now if I had ported W2’s I would not have milled...

Looks like you got most of that tail knocked down

Yes SSR, you can narrow it down there, the bigger problem is the tail that crosses over and the size of the guide itself. I’m not a expert but maybe someone else can chime in about the guide tail, and raising the roof

Those rockers work nice been on my engine for 20 years and about 15k hard miles with a solid flat tappet cam.

Your X head probably flows a little better stock than a factory stock 71 2.02 J head. X’s are right about 200cfm with valves that are not sunk, they have a better short turn also, I think with just a gasket match, a little slimming of the guide and removing the guide tail that curves, good 11/32...

Well made a porting stand at least. Will start to go at these heads in a week or so.

Thanks for the help. I’d like to work on one port int & exh and have it flowed to see if it’s worth my time. Not sure if I should have it flowed with the stock 1.88 valve and see if I’m on the right track or have it ruff cut for 2.02 and blend it in a bit and flow it?

This would be about the 10th mopar head I have ported, bb and SB, Harley Davidson head, jap bike heads, some flathead old school mini bike stuff!! Why would I need to cut the bigger seat right now when I’m working on the guide? I will probably do one port and have it flowed to see if it’s going...