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How fast were you looking to go? Those Indy X heads are known more as a performance replacement, where your stock rockers and headers will bolt up to, not as a race head, certainly not like a W2. Plenty of guys running 10's and 9's with the IMM preped X heads. What's your combo??

If you have good springs just clamp the front halfs in a few spots.

Thanks RRR, it's not bad for mostly junk parts.

Ok here you go, cam is 520/540 lift on 110lsa, 244/252 @.050. Chamber is a "J" head, heat crossover blocked, no quench, no sharp spots on Pistons/heads, polished exhaust port, VERY cold plugs, 14 initial 30 total all MSD, 10w30 oil flowing faster to pull heat out, I'll even add a bit more...

I run 11.25cr on 93. It all depends

About 550 to 600HP is what I have always heard is the limit on what a SB mopar can handle. Over 600 chances of it living long drop off fast if you use all that HP they way it should be.

That's pretty thick in The thrust side, if he checked 12 or 16 spots per cyl you have a nice block. You may have to modify the oil pickup, I would get the billit 2 bolt main caps align home and use arp studs should be fine with no need for a girdle. You can always go 4.125 crank and only bore it...

No shimming on my stock j heads

Your carb is pro a my more of a factor than the cam

Interesting, thanks

What was his thinking on that mod ??? Looks like it would disrupt flow, any dyno numbers on it?

Might want to use a 4.125 crank to go to about 427"

Indy x heads will be a whole lot cheaper than porting out J or X heads plus they will have a close chamber for a nice quench build. The hydrolic cam is probably not the best idea, a good FT solid in the .250 @.050 area with a total lift of just about 575 to 590 using 1.6 rockers will work nice...

Kind of need a lot more info, what body? What's it set up for now /6, sb, bb? What exactly do you have for the 360? The 383 will have kind of poor flowing 516 heads big valves and porting they should go 11's your only gaining 23 cubes with the 383.

I agree home ported J's 11.0 to 1, small solid 244 @.050 tti headers and it's probably a honest 400 hp on my 360. 450hp is going to take some very good flowing heads and a big cam to make a HONEST 450hp in a little 340 and that 450hp is going to be up hi in the rpm range and not a very street...

20 years that's it! Since 1995!!! The reality is set up with the same valves, springs, and same VJ. There probably about about the same ET wise if you ran them head to head. And the hardend seat thing goes out the window once the new seat is cut, you would need to actually press in a new seat.

There are all kinds of variables in making a car run on hi cyl psi and pump gas, I think it's simply the load= car weight, gearing and engine effeciency. In my case it's a demon so it's somewhat light, 3.55 gear, and most importantly the 4,400 rpm stall. I have found running a very very cold...

polishing the chambers and making sure there are no sharp edges will help a little. run a very cold plug

I run that in my small block. 200 psi cranking psi. I would not race it without mixing

Ok, thanks

Really .. how many miles do you have on these heads? Was the $450 for the CnC porting or was that the old hand job?

No, I will agree something is wrong with your setup my demon with home ported j's and a small 244/520 lift cam with 3.91 gear ran 12.22 with a 1.66 60' full street trim.

Set them both up and do a back to back test!

where did you get the idea that VR1 doesn't have enough detergent? They have a not for street use that is the same as the VR1 and is a race oil but the silver VR1 has plenty of detergent. I agree with the above post if your running stock type spring PSI you don't need much zinc, in fact when you...

I run VR1 in the silver bottle, it says right on the back not recommended for cars with cat converters, has more than enough zinc in fact I think there was a recent oil analisis that showed it had more than Brad Penn. VR1 also has a "not for street use " only difference than the regular race oil...

I've looked and looked for a write up on porting or flow data on a SB 6-pack, came up with nothing.. I'm about to port my mopar 6-pack and was going to do a thread on it, I won't have flow data. As a teaser from a well respected SB expert he said the mopar piece is slightly better. Look for the...

I would port the heads, and mill them .040 and a look into the thinnest mls gasket to try to get the CR up. Anything else bolt on like rockers or intake will only net you small gains and not worth the cost.

Annular booster carbs are way different also I run 66- 80 on a 400hp 360.

Now i understand where the water came from, yep you need the cork end gaskets to seal the intake. Sounds like your ready to clean her up get the new parts in and fire her up!! good luck\\:D/

where did the antifreeze come from if the intake was tight the first time?