Search results for query: *

No i said i am a Chevy guy and F8cked up, i couldnt see **** with the mopar bell housing. The converter was seated correctly into the pump, so i just bolted it to the flex plate. This time i test fitted everything before it all went together. The TCI converter pilot was not chamfered it did...

Whatever you say.

This was never low trust me i have a deep pan on it as well.

Well i got a lot accomplished today. Fricken heat is unbearable so only working short shift.

All you can do is send an email, and ask if anyone speaks french? That is the west coast so hard to say.

http://www.tcsproducts.com/products/ There are a lot of Canadian drag racers in different classes running his stuff, and very happy. Sadly i am just finding this out now.

Fast forward again, while this is all going on, i pick up the phone and call Paul at TCS here in Langley BC Canada. He builds a lot of great racing and street converters i found out. I wish i had heard of him first. After 3 calls and emailing him my dyno sheet, he sends me out his 9.5" 3200...

So after a second email and second phone call, he got pissed off at me and said have the speed shop refund my money and he wants both converters back now. Well my buddy already cleaned up the other converter, so i shipped them back they paid for shipping and i got my money back. Last time i ever...

Am i wrong? look at the direction of the fins how they are welded, different on both.

So after i go to the machine shop, buddy there is a Mopar guy and he builds transmissions. I send email to TCI, i get a call back from Ondra who wanted to cover some costs? So after a conversation he said he will give full warranty and send out a new converter on their next shipment to Canada...

When i put this car together, TCI seemed like the logical choice. My local speed shop set me up with everything, 3500 stall converter, full reverse pattern valve body, deep pan etc. Being an old Chevy guy, i was used to the large opening from the inspection pan, and you could look up and see...

Well measure it up send it back to Mark williams

Strange Engineering Driveshaft

Mine is a "Strange" brand from Dr Diff, chrome moly with HD 1350 ujoints, been zero issues.

Then it should be a cut re-weld and balance. Different front yoke for the 727

If you are getting a new shaft made for performance use , 1350 joints should be used, i think there might even be higher Hp ones available now.

To be honest, unless you're building a track only car where you need to run on an index, any out of the box 3500 stall from a brand name company is going to get you what you need.

I have A 10" TCI 3500 and it will flash to 4000 rpm. Mind you i am making 516 tq at 2900 rpm. 3.73 gears and a 275/60/15 drag radial, car is 3330 with me in it. It's a 100% street car, converter behaves like a stock converter until you lean on it, doesn't make extreme heat or slip.

Yep, my TCI full manual valve body had the internal arm for the neutral safety sw only. The shifter place sold me another internal arm to make it work. I ended up putting a separate toggle sw on the shifter case to operate the backup lights. i found the harness plus at the firewall and wired in...

Turbo Action Racing and Performance - Racing shifters, transmissions, converters, valve bodies, cheetah e-shift!

I have a 727 with a reverse pattern full manual valve body, and love this shifter. It's all gated, and is easy to use on the street with no effort. It pulls back towards the seat so no chance of hitting neutral. Comes with a line lock button on the handle.

HAHAHA. $500-$800 is cheap, a good race converter will run you at least $1500.00 but i have seen them knock 3-4 tenths off a guys time slip. I am glad i am done with the car hobby and have moved on. Nice car by the way, motor sounds very healthy. The 3.55 gear will be ok with a 26-27 inch tire.

I make 525 hp and 552 tq at the flexplate. Big block car, Car is 3100 lbs 3300 with me in it. I have a 10" TCI 3500 stall, it flashes to 4000 with all that torque, yet drive like a regular torque converter on the street, doesnt make a lot of heat. For a small block i would go with a 9" unit...

**** let it rev, you obviously didnt build it with MPG in mind. lol

I have 3.73 in my duster with a 275/60/15 , we run 2600 rpm at 60 mph. I went from a 3.08 to a 3.55 in my vette with a 255/60/15 gained 500 rpm, no big deal. The trade off was the car just plain drives better with more gear, accelerates nice and is not doggy at all.

There should be 3 different sets of number ranges on it, for the correct amount of teeth you are installing.

I use a Rancho RS9000 truck shock on the rear. 10 position adjustable, the stock eliminator guys ran them they work. On the front, i have Strange engineering 9 position.

If this is a high end race car, Hughs for the win.

Most race units have around 5% slippage, is your MPH falling off, or is the trap RPM going up? When you are at the track, see what the Stock and Super stock guys are running?