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That happened to me i had to replace both headlites, they both failed at the same time? Check for grounds at the socket as well.

My Voltages are exactly as your drawing, i have not had any issues. I will run the car as it is. 15.2 and 14.6 at those 2 locations On the Alt filed wires at the Alt, i have 10vdc on the green and nothing on the blue while it is running.

Mine runs at the high voltage as well, its' fine.

You could get away with stock ignition, but just my opinion. I am running a 525 hp big block with Mancini electronic conversion kit chrome box. Pulls hard through 6500 with no issues.

if you leave the wiring factory, and dont add any electrical components. Is this really necessary to do?

The starter relay on the inner fender is getting a ground signal input from someplace then. Thats all the NSS does completes a ground signal up to the start relay.

I ran the 180-200 switch on my camaro, along with a 200 amp relay in the back. I had a 120 amp 1 wire alt. If the battery goes into thermal runaway, that alt will run full tilt and burn up everything in its path.

Glad you got it working.

I found a better wiring diagram but the fricken thing saved as a text? no idea what to do with it.

Ok the black wire with yellow trace is the power and the black is the ground. You should have a common ground on the rad support . Start there.

My 71 has a 2 wire harness and connector on them plug and play. What do you have?

Thats a bit too fast should have it all in by 3000 rpm. Try one heavy one medium spring should get you there, thats what i am running.

Well if you are not planning on taking the car to the drag strip, then just extend the existing wires as is. I am not a real fan of battery in the trunk.

Each of the two speaker wires might be the positive to each speaker then they self ground. Most likely was front / rear setup would of been a single in the front and single in the rear.

i have a solid lifter flat tappet cam in mine and the vac gauge works too. You can hear it as well.

Use a vacuum gauge. Or if you have a timing lite with a tach in it i have an OTC lite that i use .

Check all the bulb wiring with a meter to ground. You have a hard dead short to ground someplace.

Neutral safety sw in the transmission. Send a ground reference to the start relay on the inner fender.

You either need a balancer that is completely marked, a timing tape for that balancer, or a digital timing lite. Set total timing with a vac distributor with the vac line off. you should have total timing in by 3000 rpm. A digital lite and marked balancer is nice, this way you can see the timing...

18 initial here with 32 total.

I run MSD 8.8 mm wires, small cap type dizzy no troubles. i had to make all my ends for the dizzy end, all 90 degree boots on the plugs.

First off i get frustrated fast. What i did today was take the alt to the local shop and had them spin it. It was fine. The parts store i like had a new regulator on the shelf i got it home and used a diode tester to check it out, mine was bad. Installed new one and yes made sure the new one had...

Wow seriously? LOL ok never mind.

I am pretty sure i am going to find out there is an issue with this alt.

71 Duster 20,000 mile car, was 6 cyl now 383 with electronic ignition conversion . Chrome box from Mancini. Car starts and runs great. The Alternator came from Source 440 its one of there 50 amp deals, dual field wires etc. Ok so the old alt was a dual field wire alt as well with th batt term...

LOL beat me too it.

Oh Damn Darwin award winner here. Oh well i have big shoulders can admit a mistake. The signal light lever was in the on position ta da... Sorry to waste your time, thank you for all the help.

Ok will do thank you.

Now i am told by fellow Dodge guy that its in the signal lite sw? could be interesting that would just start acting up.

I wont panic yet. It all worked before it came apart to go to the body shop. Will wait till its running before i start looking. Most likely its a ground issue some place.