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Trying to catch up some as I do not frequent this forum much... How about some datalogs and perhaps a tune file? I have a 5.7L running on a Gold Box, I can probably look over your settings for a gut-check. I'll echo the other responses, you must have exhaust in order for your o2 to provide any...

dont the fitechs have a built-in regulator?

You may find that the hydramat clogs up quite quickly in a semi-rusty tank like that. Off-roaders have had troubles with that, even using very large mats. If it clogs up once, you've shot any chance of "saving money" going this route.

Its best to call TTI directly. I have a borg box and ac, the headers I have don't remotely clear the box.

at 65mph I am about at 1,900rpm, 2,300rpm at 80... If you had 3.55s, 0.69 OD and turned 1,800rpm at 80mph, you would have to have a 36" tall tire...the correct calculation is 2,368rpm using the 27" tall tire you reference earlier.

I have a 0.63 6th, 3.91 and 28.4” rear tires. I have no problems with highway crusing torque. If I started from scratch, 3.7x in the axle would be a hair better for me.

I stacked two shims on my magnum trans. SST is very particular about measuring for this

This isn't the best picture, but you can see what's happening. Two 90° ends and a flat plate spanning between them. This kit came from Silver Sport Transmissions, maybe they include it and not Wilwood. This is a early picture, many things have changed on my car since I took this, but this...

My Wilwood master came with a support that ties to the lower MC bolt to a drilled hole in the forward frame rail. No deflection. Can get pictures if needed

I don't have anywhere near by the make a decent 3rd gear 100mph pull to get a similar comparison. The numbers for the filter are nearly indisputable, there's no question it's too small.

I ended up flattening out on peak power for a couple of hundred rpm. Looking at a log I think I've determined my air filter is far too small since I am pulling a vacuum as the revs rise [watch the MAP]. Since then I have bought what K&N sells for their Hemi CAIs and will run that...

I'd have to dig into it for the number, but it's seamless. My clutch input switch is also at the top of the pedal's travel, so spark doesn't reengage until the clutch pedal is fully released. It cuts fuel and retards spark.

No. ECU cuts power when I touch the clutch above 4,500rpm and 80% throttle. Power is progressively returned, it's actually quite easy on the driveline but the air going through the engine never slows down, so it picks up the next gear quite well.

It does alright when the traction control is turned off

Nice! Won't those eagle heads put your compression ratio through the roof?

The car has 1,600 miles on it. It moves very well with the 6-speed.

What's a carb?

Does it? It meets my expectations, perhaps you are surprised with the numbers, but I am not. Every dyno can be quite drastically different, it's a tool, not gospel. It's still a mid-12 second car, excellent driveability, good fuel economy and it doesn't leak. If pure horsepower is what I was...

DynoJet inertia dyno I've street tuned the car completely and wanted to see where I was at and to make some minor adjustments. I started at about 340whp/350wtq and picked up a few more of each. Ended at 354whp and 365wtq. There's a little more left in it if I can clean up my intake air temps...

Sounds like it’s ready for a couple pounds of boost to me

Actually you can setup the launch to be timed ignition retard for the initial hit if you had that problem, then it goes to %slip.

Don’t think that will be an issue unless wilwood stops making this rotor. Which is used in several kits.

That's correct. I don't think I am the first, perhaps on a 1972 Yellow 'Cuda, but it has been done. :steering::thumbsup:

One of the best parts about going to a MegaSquirt ECU is the amount of customization you can do. It would be a bit cumbersome if you only used it for spark and fuel. To get the most out of it, I am using the VR output shaft sensor on my T56 Magnum transmission along with a Hall Effect undriven...

Not sure how much Wade is on here, but I believe his is out at a body shop, ultimately for paint job. Alex got his running and is working on some rust repair to help dial the whole car in a little more before it hits the road again.

Yessir. The Overhaulin' car was my Dad's Challenger. I had to do my own "Overhaul" on my 'Cuda...but it took longer than a week!

It sounds like you've made up your mind. I'm curious to hear how it works out when you are done.

First off, MDS lifters are pretty problematic and are not as robust as the standard lifters. The logic behind the lifters is much more complicated than a simple vacuum signal at a given TPS, TPS/MAP will cross that area at many different times during a typical street drive and you would be...

I have a few comments to go around, I have been fighting other fires lately and have been trying to get some miles on the car! At a high level, I need to learn the in's and out's of the Megasquirt platform to best suit my needs. Primarily, I would love a closed loop and open loop timing table...

Thanks PH, can you fill me in on what a "Spark Loop Test" is? That's a new one for me.