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Sounds like your going to have to go to a different sway bar then. '73 and up were shorter IIRC.

Swap the spindles side to side so you can put the calipers on the back side. You will need brake flex hoses from a Volare because the factory "A" body hose won't fit. Make sure you have the bleeder screw facing UP when you bolt them on. Or you can use a shorter bolt through the sway bar but it...

You may have to change a couple of fittings. I can't remember but I think one is different at the master and maybe one at the valve? Been awhile since i did one. I just cut the line, put on the fitting that I need and make a new flair on the line.

The link for the valve you need is in post #5. You SHOULD change the master system because the reservoir will be larger for the disc brakes. Some will say just keep an eye on it and use what you have but I always change it to the correct one. Silly not to, they don't cost much and by now the one...

Well michiganpat it sounds like you will be letting us know. Don't forget to update the thread with your out come.

Yeah that is a lot. But they didn't care I guess?

Well... there you go!

I'm confused as well. How do you have a 1976 with SBP wheels? I thought by 74 they where all large.

No they will not be in the same spot. That is what Kern Dog is telling you. They will stick out a little bit more.

Not sure if it took a turn but you really should use the correct parts when doing the conversion. He never asked about a master cylinder so I never said anything about it.

Mopar 1 Piece Proportioning Valve This is what you need

Mopar A B E Body 66-73 Steering Column Coupler Stainless Cover, Black Seal & Clamp / Retainer 3"

The large hose goes to the back of the carb or the intake manifold. It is your vacuum source. The small hose goes to the heater control in the air cleaner NOT the valve cover.

It would fail in the states as well but most don't check

Compression fittings on brake lines really isn't a great idea.

Well, if you have very low oil pressure all the time then this is a problem for sure

Put a manual gauge on it and drive it. This will tell you for sure if it's a problem. If the manual gauge does the same thing then you know the light isn't lying. Plus how many miles on the engine? It could be that the bearings are that worn and the idle is dropping to low. But the manual gauge...

^^^^^ I have done it this way for years. Most times it works great. Once in a while you'll have to bleed the whole system. You'll know right away if you pedal feels like a sponge. So yea, Tooljunkie is correct.

How old are the flex brake lines? They will collapse with age, That makes the fluid easy to push through the line but not want to return because your foot is a hell of a lot stronger than those return springs.

I changed mine over from a 7 1/4 to an 8 3/4 and used all the old stuff. It works. It's been a few years so I may be a bit foggy.

To answer your question I think I would just replace it. But that's just me. Some rebuilt them but they don't cost that much.

That is not a proportioning valve that is the distribution block or sometimes called the safety valve (switch). The proportioning valve is in line going to the rear brakes. These pictures might help.

Inline tube for the lines. You can use your valve but you need to add this Inline Tube Hold Off Valve in the line going to the rear brakes.

I've had my local NAPA store rebuilt a few is the past. It was about 200 bucks. Looks like new and worked great. Turn around was about a week if I remember correctly.

There is a check valve in the vacuum line right there at the booster. Make sure the valve is not sticking.

Hay... How do like that Summit cam? I've been always wanting to try one but never have.

I'm with 72bluNblu on this. 14" of vacuum is enough for your power brakes. I'm running a bigger cam than you and have about 11" at the booster and my brakes work fine. You may have a leak in the booster itself.

Some don't weep, they leak. The cylinder is cast and a very porous metal. Shitty fit for sure. Take it off. Sand it down to a nice flat surface and it won't leak. Or buy one with screw on lids.

I went through that as well. I took mine off and used a belt sander on the top of the master cylinder to get a nice sealing surface. Cleaned, bled, put it back on and don't fill it to the top. That worked for me. Most are not flat on the sealing surface.

I have been very happy with these guys too... Inline Tube | Preformed Lines, Brake Products, DIY & Restoration Parts