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For daily driving and best gas mileage i'd go the 318 way. Both engines share the same stroke but the 3.91 vs. 4.04 in bore and valves / cam setup really marks a difference in MPG and Performance. Have you considered an EFI setup for your build?:glasses7:

Had the same issues with my 318; the ticking noise between cylinder 4 & 6 and the milkshake oil. After engine disassembly it turned out to be a spun cam bearing, a wipe out cam and two broken lifters. Not pretty at all. Good luck!

Any update? Having a similar issue around here :(

Already primed the engine, no leaks. Just a very small oil mark at the plug's border after a while..

Thanks for the advice guys!

Can anyone confirm if this plug was installed correctly? The engine has not been started yet and I can notice a small line of oil at the border of it.

For daily use, 318 !

NGK in the Duster and Autolites in the Barracuda. They work..

Great info. Thanks!

Remember its a roller cam engine im working with. .420" sounds fair for a street daily engine?

New question about the 302 heads; How far can I go in cam lift using stock valve springs?

I care. Is there any way I can take a look at them in a read-able size?

Got the engine out of the van yesterday and for my surprise, the heads are indeed 302´s :-D Now I just need to get some 1.88/ 1.60 valves to go with them

I´ll check 1st. (maybe so maybe no) ............

Best inexpensive aluminum that´ll fit 318 head ports?

Now THAT makes me sad. I´ll confirm about the heads as soon as I have them out.

Its a pre magnum engine. Still, I´ll have to get a roller cam then. Read wrong at first

That sounds great. The engine im buying comes from a 1989 Ram van with just 14,000 miles. Cant wait to throw it in the Duster with a 340 cam, a dual plane and street headers

For example; Can I swap a stock 340 cam, headers and a performer intake to a 1989 318?

Hi there! There´s a 1989 Dodge van with a 318 they´re selling for cheap locally. Do parts from this engine exchange with older 318´s? I´m planning to swap the newer 318 in my Duster but I don´t want the electronics from the 1989. Can I use older intake/ cam/ ignition/ ex. manifolds? Has anyone...

Pre 72 have forged cranks and some 72's till 78 have cast cranks. Came in HP cars, trucks, full size cars. Here's an interesting link with great info; http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html

Having the exact same problem with my duster. With electric load alternator shows 18v. While the battary says 14v. Great help I've found here, now I know where to start searching for the culprit of my electrical issue.

Had an issue that sounds just like yours in my '72 Slant Duster. Read that the carb was most likely to be guilty on this one (the plunger specifically). Changed the carb to a rebuilt one and problem solved. Besides, it was the factory carb with not a major rebuilt throughot its life. On 1bbl...

Actually not much of a compression raise but the stock dish top pistons were bad and needed replacement. I found these at good price and bought em. The thing is I had no idea how much the comp. ratio will vary if I used the flat tops instead of the dish pistons.

The rings do get to the exact same point, just not sure about the measurement right now. So, I am suppose to expect an 8.something comp ratio with these flattops?

Cant go to high on compression. My goal is to rebuilt the 360 as cheap as possible while making it reliable. Not that much high performance around here. Going with higher compression and better heads, since I'm running the stock 360 ones, when time is appropiate. Thanks all for the help!!

I´m in the process of rebuilding a 1975 360 that was taken out of a truck. The thing is that I replaced the 8.6:1 compression stock pistons for a set that are flat tops (Clevite TC-3066) to raise comp. ratio a bit. When piston #1 is at TDC it shows a 0.125 between the piston top and the block...

I have a slant six duster that does the same, as soon as you rev it up a bit the light turns off

I will like to maintain a low budget on this one. According to the coments I have read, it sounds much easier to bolt in a carb instead of the EFI assembly so I will maybe go that way better.... So, can I use the 5.2L Jeep engine, replace thew EFI for a carb and Im on the right track? Can I use...

Isn't there a way in which I can use the stock EFI assembly out of the jeep?