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I think it's a better idea than wrapping them in tin foil. :realcrazy:sorry.

When my original prestolte 340 distributor wore out I bought a Eclin dual point. It was a mechanical setup made by a division of eccel. That was a slickest little distributor. I still have it in a box somewhere. I move to electronic distributor about 10 years ago I've never looked back.

Sounds good I would Target 5 psi or six

Yes 3/8 line and sending unit upgrade is a good one. One of the first things I did when I went to six pack induction. 5/16 is adequate if everything is working perfectly no kinks no obstructions etc but why? 3/8 goes right through all the holes in the frame . Six pack like volume and not...

One more thing that comes to mind and again excuse me if it's been covered have you checked top dead center number one cylinder in conjunction with your timing mark to make sure that something weird is not going on there.

Is the rear carb sticky when being engaged by vacuum or can you feel it hanging up manually. I would do whatever I could to correct that problem because you know it's going to be a problem.

Yes even with my outboards disconnected my big cam 340 will still pull up to 5 grand seamlessly using only the center carb.

Wow that's a lot of changes. just spitballing here but you know for a fact that you're out bored carbs are full according to site bowls? 2And are working properly I think you could still be looking rich on your plugs if you're out bored carburetors aren't opening and letting air in under load...

Well I understand you're frustration but you need to work out the problems before you rebuild or you might just be bolting your problems right back on. I didn't have a chance to read all the posts but I do run a six pack and have had similar problems in my ignition. Two things that I would do...

Well as frustrating as chasing a loose wire can be at least it was an inexpensive fix and all is good, Mopar on brother!

I would probably go with 12 initial to start out, And go from there. Oh yeah congratulations on that crate that's awesome!

I have three dead ones on my shelf in the garage. It took about a decade to collect those three. I no longer use them I do like the way they perform, they're just too expensive to replace for the per formance. My stuff's just street but I find the Mopar control units to be adequate, more...

No inside just a guess how old's the MSD. As great a unit as those are I haven't had the best of luck with them. I only get a few years out of mine I think I have three dead ones on the shelf.

in some waysThat confirms what others have said for years. I was sold on dual points for high performance and was late to the party changing over to Chrysler Mopar performance electronic system only about 10 years ago or so. The system is basically been trouble free and I am glad I changed over...

Sunday I found the short in my Park lights circuit, as I mentioned I had power from the bulkhead but nothing at the park lights or front and rear markers. Long story short there was a broken wire inside the installation right at the first connection to the front Park lights. Probably separated...

Okay looking back on the original post I see he believes the advanced to be 24°you could work with that.

Hey Rusty I remember people saying if I remember correctly that those units added too much advance for a setup that needed let's say over 10° initial without modification ? Just for a side note I run Mopar performance distributors and control units am a fan.

All ground wires seem to be connected on the front harness. That was one of my first test no power to the bulb. I do have brake lights but no rear fender markers side markers or Park lights, I seem to have power out of the bulkhead and out of the switch to too, I know I'm missing something

I really feel it's something simple but I have came back to it a couple times now and haven't been able to pin it down. The back lights are the only things that will light with the light switch in the first position

Pretty sure it's the right circuit black wire with yellow tracer also energizes when I click the switch to the first position. It's just strange to me that both front and rear marker lights and front Park lights will not energize it seems if it was a grounding issue it would affect one light...

After receiving my 340 swinger back from the paint shop I have been reassembling it. I cannot get the Park lights and markers to light I know they're on the same circuit. I seem to be getting power out of the bulkhead from the switch but no power to any of the lights. Any help would be greatly...

You may have a couple nicks in the combustion chamber or possibly along the cylinder wall but I doubt it. It's amazing what a motor will chew up and spit out.

I always carry a spare in the trunk along with a electronic ignition control unit, leaving the ignition on seems to be hard on them they get really hot.

To tell the truth I kind of miss my old mechanical dual point, my car also came with the presto light dual point that I ran till the breaker plate wore out then I moved to eclin mechanical dual point which is a Excel , combined with their high performance condenser it was a pretty hot little...

Thread snatch, what kind of heads are those Fred?

what! I'm going to need to see more pics yep more photos, preferably something that shows small tattoos or skin blemishes just for authenticity purposes you understand LOL

Stock starter should be more than adequate, you say the battery has been checked but you may try putting another battery that you know his new and hot. You also May check your timing too much initial timing and it will definitely strain your starter I also remember that some ome starter spin...

it's like some other parts that are just going away and not being manufactured anymore I have seen a few on eBay used switches and new switches. New Old Stock switches are going for a premium price. If you get one cherish it LOL I just paid $80 born original Dart emblem for a 70 340 swinger. It...

I have also gone through three MSD boxes, the failure rate seems to be high to me but as previously said when they're working they're a great unit. But they are a little spendy so I went with the Pro Form Chrysler ignition designed ignition and really liked it for the street. Very...