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I’d just make things worse if I tried to “improve” the solder job. See any harm in putting a drop of glue on the top center of the red wire to keep it in place?

A friend of my has experience with this type of work and he added the piece of stranded wire across the break. I’ll check it in the morning but I’m optimistic that this will put me back in business. A new board would be nice but I’m impatient to get back to installing my new meter match device...

What’s the best way to repair this?

Checked this afternoon and you are 100% correct. I turned the dash lights dimmer knob and voltage varied from 0 to 10V (with car not running).

Good info - thanks. Before I retired I was content to patch and fix without really getting to understand the car. Now that I’m retired and the car is almost 53 years old - I have more time and the car has more problems. I’m willing and eager to learn. I certainly appreciate the time and...

Great idea…. I’m already in their web site getting ready to order one.

You are probably right. I’ll check that tomorrow. I have a new headlight switch waiting to be installed when I’m ready to pull the panel out again - my current dash light rheostat is hosed up and is intermittant. If that’s the case - then I probably have nothing to be concerned about vs the...

I’ll have to go to the manual to understand what goes thru the fuse where I measured the low voltage. The fuse was dead ‘till I turned on the headlights…then the voltage came up. Lights off and the fuse has no voltage.

I was measuring voltage at the fuse box today. I’m measuring 12+ volts at most fuses in the fuse box. With headlights switched on - voltage at the fuse for the headlights is around 8V when engine is off and approximately 10V when the engine is running. I didn’t check this voltage before I...

I’ll take a crack at removing & replacing the pins & sockets. If that doesn’t work out - I’ll just bypass the connector. Maybe I should consider a 2-pin connector for the red wire (already by-passed) and the black wire that is currently intermittent in the connector.

I noticed the empty position in the plug with a brown stain. To my recollection - I’ve never handled this connector before and I was assuming that this is just an empty slot that has never been used. Now that you mention it…there is a heavy red wire in the same area that has a weird splice...

Kinda hard to use that method while standing on my head to work under the dash. Lifting the tab did the trick. I cleaned the connector (which wasn’t in bad shape at all) and put things back together. I finally traced the intermittent connection to the black wire adjacent to the yellow...

I seem to have an intermittent connection thru this connector for the yellow wire. No power to the instrument panel unless I press the pointed lead of a meter into the socket of the yellow wire on the top right. I’ve tugged a lot on the connector and, while I can get a little wiggle, it isn’t...

Just to let you know…. I took a test drive yesterday and everything works on the instrument panel….all gauges, lights, turn signals, and speedometer. I don’t recall if I said it earlier but I resorted to replacing the voltage limiter with an external 5V power supply. All is good for now -...

Thanks… I‘ll put things back together & give the speedo a check ride.

I just posted this question in the transmission forum - but thought I’d ask here since I’ve already engaged you guys on my speedo issue. I purchased a 34 tooth speedo gear which will replace an incorrect 40 tooth speedo gear. When I pulled the speedo gear off I found a good orange seal...

I’m re-reading this thread this morning and I discovered the link you provided to the MAD catalogue. Wow - what a great “electrical systems for dummies” that I need to fully review. Thanks!

I’m not following what you are telling me here. Are you telling me there should be 2 parts at each screw…. A top hat and a rubber washer?

Interesting to note that one of the washers is shaped a bit like a top hat. The other washer is relatively flat. I wonder if the top hat shape is due to the washer being pressed into the hole and then turning rigid.

I came up with an idea while reading another thread where someone with a similar car corrected a speedometer clicking noise by replacing the speedometer gear (at the transmission). I’ve already ordered a new one. As a side-note ….in the late 80s the speedo gear stripped and I got another one...

Thanks RedFish… I will purchase and replace the isolators. I just took each screw off and the “missing” washer was actually pressed down into the hole and hard as a piece of plastic. The other washer that was split broke when I removed it and it too was hard. Too bad that Mopar couldn’t...

Both screws seemed snug but one turned a few degrees with light screwdriver pressure. The rubber gasket under that screw looks like it is split - but nothing wiggles when I apply force to the speedo connection.

I just looked at cable routing with cluster removed and it appears to be coming in pretty straight. No better option. I inspected the end of the cable and it looks clean and smooth. I looked at the head of the speedometer and see nothing unusual there. I repeated the speedo check with the...

I just re-checked the battery. It is at 12.6 volts with switch off and 12.5 volts with the switch on.

I just read some threads regarding lubricant for the speedo cable and there are really some opposing opinions out there vs what to use. One comment I read makes me hesitate to put anything in the connector area vs risk of it getting into the speedometer itself. What lubricant do you recommend...

Your statement above makes me wonder if I may need to re-route the cable (if I can) to better align the cable with the speedometer head. Not much room in there to do anything. In the meantime - I’m going to get some lubricant.

Also - with the engine running - the voltage at the instrument cluster plug is over 13 V. I also found another pin for dash lights that reads 11.9 V with the engine running. Maybe I’m ok with the voltage issue. I didn’t run the engine earlier because I was in the garage and had a gas leak at...

Update on speedometer. With the cluster on a bench - I used a drill to run the speedometer up to mid 30s and there’s no clicking. I then jacked the back wheels off the ground and ran the car in 3rd gear and the disconnected cable made no noise. I reconnected the speedometer and ran the car...

All - I just reviewed inputs above and I’ll need to re-read a few times to totally understand all of the suggestions. Cutting to the chase - I got the voltage up some and reinstalled the instrument panel to check everything and take a short test drive. The fuel and temp gauges now work...

Thanks everyone for the input and suggestions. I’ll provide an update later.