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Yes…. Check valve. Today’s carb is fresh out of the box. I’ve had this same issue over and over. A fuel leak that close to the exhaust manifold is scary.

I didn’t do the flare on the fuel line. I bought a pre-formed fuel line that already the the flare. As I recall - it came with fittings on both ends.

Here’s a picture…

Carter 2 barrel.

I just put a remanufactured carb in my 1971 318 engine. I’ve had a recurring problem with fuel leaking at the fuel line/check-valve connection. It seems that, in the past, it has been a trial and error cycle to tighten the nut stop the fuel leak. I’ve had this happen in recent years with two...

Mystery solved. Bottom line - I screwed up. When I removed the old tank last week I made tags and marked the gas and air vent lines. Unfortunately - I somehow got them reversed. I reversed the lines this afternoon and then the car started easily. I did a lot of huffing and puffing on...

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I look forward to getting out tomorrow to investigate further. The failure to start happened right at sundown…too late to do much plus I knew the starter and battery needed a break. I ran out of gas a couple of years ago and it seemed to crank up in just a...

I won’t know if the lock ring is good ‘till I get more gas in the tank. Either way - the fuel pickup line should be submerged with 5 gallons in the tank. For the record - the lock ring was very unsatisfactory because the diameter is too small to center reliably. I actually had to pull the...

I just installed a new gas tank and in-line fuel filter. I re-installed my old sending unit because it tested good (and new one didn’t). I cleaned the carb and installed a new (transparent) gas filter. I‘m starting off with no fuel in lines, filter, or fuel pump because I let the engine run...

I’m not strong on electronics so I’d like to ask if the item shown in the picture would do the job for supplying the necessary 5V to my temp and fuel gauges.

I guess a flashing LED might be a bit hard to see on the back of the instrument cluster.

A quick search within the site here and I came up with a reference to a solid state voltage limiter by a company called Real Time Engineering. Specifically - they offer a device called an IVR4 for my car for $50. Have any good or bad experience with that source?

I had an interesting find yesterday. I decided to test my fuel and temp gauges using a device that allowed me to “dial in” a desired DC voltage. I adjusted it to provide close to 5 V at the gauges and tested each with the variable resister that I have. They both worked perfectly. I...

Before I order a new fuel gauge - anyone have a suggestion vs what I might do to get my existing gauge to work? If I buy a new gauge - any recommendations for who to buy from?

RedFish…. I’m the one with the gauge that needs to go down to 3 ohms to get it to Full. FYI - I’m also using a decade resistance bank. If I read you correctly - My gauge is going to be toast if I come up with a device to “make” it read correctly. I suppose my money and effort might be best...

Thanks to both of you for the responses. Your gauge reading full with manual (out of tank) sending unit operation makes me wonder if the sending unit is designed for a tank with more height. If that’s the case - the sending unit arm might not be able to raise high enough to use its full range...

I probably should have added that I’m dealing with a 71 Duster and I know its maintenance history since I’m the original owner.

I seem to have a situation with my fuel gauge that MIGHT be similar to sgrip65 . I’ve pulled the instrument cluster and purchased a device that allows me to dial in resistance. With a good voltage limiter (old and new limiters provide a good 5 volt pulse) - I found that the gauge reads full...

Quick update.... I pulled apart another Carter carb that I had stashed away and used the vacuum piston from that carb. It fits fine and all seems to move well. I noticed that the older one (that fits) has a Carter stamp in it and the other one didn’t. Apparently that piston hasn’t worked...

Looks to me that these two parts cannot be properly aligned - thus the reason the piston isn’t free to move when the screw is installed

It moved freely with rods installed but before the retaining screw was installed. Gut tells me that the shoulder of the stud is dragging against the guide sleeve in collar on the top of the piston. (The stud that I refer to is in the top-center of my photo). The pin/jet combo were there before...

For what it’s worth... the car idled perfectly before the carb rebuild... so I’m inclined to believe the cause is in the carb. I did the rebuild because the accelerator pump wasn’t working and it was hard to start when cold.

I’ll add a photo to help clarify... I just used a carb kit to rebuild a 2 barrel Carter carb for my 1971 318 Duster. I cleaned everything a well as I could using a carb cleaner, rags, etc. I noticed that the vacuum piston plate assembly wasn’t moving freely when re-assembled. It moved fine...

I seem to have a leak-free installation (for now). Trying install the sending unit when the tank is on the car is way less than optimal. I decided to remove the tank and give the installation a better chance of success. I compared the new gasket to the old and thickness was the same. I used...

Thanks. I'll look for the old gasket and see how the thickness compares.

I recently installed a new gas tank and sending unit on my 71 Duster. While under the car trying to figure why the gas gauge was intermittant, I noticed that I smelled gas and the area around the sending unit gasket was damp. Any guess as to what I should do to get a tighter fit? Should I look...

green1 and Redfish - Thanks for the info. I have an intermittant gas gauge after installing a new gas tank and sending unit and I'm basically ingorant when it comes to troubleshooting electrical stuff. Your info gives me enough limited knowledge to start with and may help me trouble shoot...