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The patina on the commutator is fine. Removing it, will lead to brush wear again. Commutator patina is essential for less brush mechanical resistance and long brush life.

engine temp sensor specs Post #5 by RedFish, he is an instrument expert.

Thermostats often have a small bleed hole to bypass, but other things might keep the thermostat from closing. Things like improper use of sealer, dirty sealing surface, bent surface, gasket on wrong side .... Visual inspection, and test of thermostat in pot of water with thermometer should...

The OEM a/c cars have a 3 row radiator, 6 vane pump, thermostatic fan, shroud, and different pulley system. I only have a 273, summer gets hot here 100+F, never overheated.

Yes. ???? I think I see the vacuum dashpot on the distributor. You can try all sorts of fixes to the cooling, but if the timing is retarded, fix that first. Check the dashpot by sliding the advance plate, cap the hose nipple. The advance should stay in position, until to pull the cap...

I do not see the vacuum advance hooked up. Retarded timing = heat in heads and engine compartment. The advance will give several degrees at light load, off idle, but will not effect wide open throttle timing.

Have you checked that the vacuum advance is working?

After thinking about it more, perhaps too much oil installed. Just another thing to check.

The front seal is a solid and made of carbon. I would check torque the small bolts around the end housing, and oil pan first. I changed a seal around 1980 and it still works today, but using r12.

I use these nylon hose clamps. They come in many sizes, but the zip range is limited. I use mainly on vacuum hoses, including turbo applications with boost. Temperature range for the black double snap is -40 to 255F. The white singe snap is -25 to 275F. I get from McMaster Carr.

If it is similar to my 66, there are two 7/16" nuts in holes accessed from the bottom front of unit. The studs are in the lower dash rail. There is a thick foam gasket connection to A/C heater box. The heater box opening is about 5" x 7", from memory.

If the problem is a leaky shaft seal, change that out. I did mine in about 1980, still holding the freon. Change the compressor oil too.

If you plan on modern refrigerant, a parallel flow condenser is better than the serpentine coil. I have had great luck with the original AC in my 66 Barracuda. I changed dryer, expansion valve and compressor seals in 1980, has stayed charged since. Almost unbelievable. It is so hot and...

EFI fuel hoses have an inner liner. If clamps are put on too tight on a barb fitting, the inner liner may be cut. The outer part is protective, but does not hold up to fuel, unless rated for in-tank use. On tires, my son works for a tire company. He gives me a hard time if I clean my tires...

Yep, major heat by retarted timing at cruise. Easy fix, use vacuum advance, might be your only solution. You are missing out on 15 to 20 degrees of advance when you need it. It all goes away at WOT. The nice thing about vacuum advance, done right, no impact on power.

Is the vacuum advance on the distributor functional?

Nice work!

That switch looks similar but not sure. I will look in my box of parts to see if I kept the old one and compare. Yes the vacuum connector is like that. The pins are brittle and break, resulting in leaks. Mopar kept similar design for many years. I looked and I think I remember tossing it...

I had a similar problem years ago and purchased a NOS switch module on ebay. The old switch was leaky with vacuum. The vacuum connectors are also fragile. The max setting boosts fan speed. Poor bulkhead connections mess with fan speed, the current requirement is significant. I also found...

How is the hood to radiator seal? Also the vacuum advance and proper timing is important at cruise. Retarted timing increases engine and underhood temperatures.

I think the A/C radiators have 3 rows on the core.

I buy rolls of Neoprene brand tubing from McMaster-Carr. It is good quality, many sizes available. They also have some neat nylon clamps, T's and adapters.

The R134 requires good evaporator fan speed. Also the adjustment on the thermostatic expansion valve is different. I did a conversion once and was not satisfied, changed to a R134 calibrated expansion valve, it made a huge difference! Also I think parallel flow condensers work better than the...

Try the cabin heater fan, with full heat setting. It might help, or not.

Ignition timing is one way, but you will need something to control that.

About the timing... The stock timing should be 10 degrees BTDC unless it is a California engine with cleaner air package (CAP). The CAP engines were set 5 degrees ATDC. They also had a vacuum control valve, that switched the vacuum source to manifold vacuum off idle, to advance the timing to...

Nice job on your cooling work. Since it sounds like you have EFI, and the exhaust is hot. The thought came to me that the ignition timing may be too retarded in places. Retarded timing can easily overheat engine, exhaust, and significantly reduce power and economy.

I put a seal in my 1966 Barracuda RV2 in about 1981, I added about 1/2 can of freon since then, (just once) and it still works great! This hot summer was a great test on it. I think the seal was carbon. Keep the work clean, change the oil and evacuate well. Consider changing the receiver...

I found this, however no direct experience with it. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/edl-8059-idlecompensatorkitfored.pdf

The best alternators are at most, 60% efficient. Typically to get 1HP for the fan requires about 2HP from the engine. The lost HP, is more heat in the engine compartment.