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If that helps take step 2. If you have steel wheels, no hub caps, drive on a gravel road. Where the dust settles in lip, is the light spot. Add an oz or so there, see if that helps.

Pull the weights, move fronts to rear, do a couple burnouts to round them off. :lol:

Left hand nuts are marked. That is my experience. Notches on the fancy cap nuts, on the end of plain nuts L or --. Avoid any shop that uses impact tools to tighten lug nuts. I use Discount Tire, they use hand torque wrenches to tighten. Knowing how to use a cross bar corectly, studs...

Just like the evening news, my words lost context. No ill will to you RRR. Please forgive me for my poo in your parade. For those that have interest in improved sensitivity and harmonic resolution, use a free FFT application on your Android smart phone... but, that might be stupid... I am out...

The reed tachometer is old school, but useful. Newer methods involves a vibration sensors, then FFT to find the frequency and amplitude of harmonics. Many scopes have FFT capability. Moving the sensor location can help identify the cause.

Most tires now days are fairly well balanced. They have markings for run out, and location to place opposite of fill valve. I have balanced wheels, then installed tires myself with good results. I have some inside information on tires because my son is an engineer for a major tire company.

Are there washers? The bottom of the nuts have a shoulder that goes in the wheel, the clearance is fairly tight. As far as torque the sbp stud is 7/16"-20 thread, standard wheel torque is 55 to 65 ft-lbs. The special lug likely has more friction on washer and sides, so 70 to 80 ft-lbs is...