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Well, the transmission is located concentrically by your 110mm OD of the bearing retainer. The 4 mounting bolts (7/16"-14 UNC here) are used to retain the trans to the bellhousing. The 4 holes in the trans are clearance holes for the bolts. Most likely about .030 oversize. Can't your...

Just eyeballin here. Looks like an over-the-counter shifter. That's fine but probably needs to be gone through. Looks like the holes in the shifter levers are the larger one so you'll need the bushings. If the trans is A-body then the Brewer's rods will work. That's what they do, Mopar 4...

I struggled with the top-loader A-903 in my 64/225 for a few years. Column shift, non-synchro first gear and the pin-type synchro was not pleasant. I recently swapped in the correct early 4 speed. Really nice but for the mostly cruising I do, the extra gear isn't needed. The A-903 is about 75%...

I think it really depends on the bell housing bolt pattern. I'm not familiar with a 313 V-8 but the bellhousing pattern may be the same as the first gen Hemis.. There are adapter plates sold to mate the Hemis with newer transmissions. There are a few old school companies that make them. A phone...

Yes, use the roller bearing in the torque converter register. Install it, carefully measure how much to cut and do it. The shaft only needs to be long enough to go through the new bearing. After cutting, grind a lead-in chamfer on the end of the shaft like the original. Some of the pictures...

Have not installed mine yet but simple math will give you RPM change. 4th gear is 1:1 and OD depends on which TKX you buy. I think mine is .68 OD so if you run 3000 rpm at 70, then .68 X 3000 = 2040

I put a few hundred miles on the car after the 4 speed swap late last season and some of the issues were: Could not put trans into gear with stationary car and engine running. Clutch seemed too stiff for what it was. VERY difficult to shift once underway. Strange whirring noises with clutch...

SOLVED! I though I should post an update so here goes: In one of my earlier posts (#19) I asked if anyone had the early crank register I.D. handy and got no response. I was thinking of searching out a roller bearing I might be able to use which after 50 years in Mech Engineering is no big...

I just did this on my 1964 /6. One thing to note, john6464 installed his bearing backwards, the lettering should face out because there is a lip seal built into the bearing. (See pic) It is packed with grease and the lip seal helps keep the grease in place. I used an actual input shaft as a...

@jonn6464 Would you happen to have the P/N of the bearing you used?

FWIW. With 3.23 gears and standard diameter tires, I'm running exactly 3000 at 70 (GPS) mph. My speedo is dead nuts accurate too. I cruise the 320 miles to Carlisle and just tell myself, while trying not to shift again, that millions of miles were put on these cars at the same RPM.

I was born on a Sunday, just not last Sunday.

I've read all the responses, thanks! Yes the car creeps a little in 2nd gear with clutch in. Yes it goes into 4th gear with pressure on the stick when engine is shut off. Update: I'll remove the trans and clutch soon. It could be a couple weeks though as I'm collecting parts, manpower and...

Thanks for the advice AJ and Duggie! I'll do some testing when I visit the car later today or tomorrow. I took it around the block about a week ago and noticed that it does creep when in gear with the clutch in. Car actually moves very slowly. I'm leaning towards a dragging input shaft/pilot...

My original plan was to convert from 3 speed to 4 speed as economically as possible using that swap meet 65 trans with factory parts retaining the B&T. Ha! Ended up putting more $ into bargain trans than expected. Factory hump and BH were not cheap. If I had to do it over again, I'd go T5. For...

1. Possibly a bad clutch. 2. I agree and I'll check. But pretty much had same issue as time went on with the 3 speed in it. That was with a WELL worn pilot bushing before I changed it. 3. I've looked at clutch departure through the inspection port. Measured .05 with feeler gages as stated in...

It took me a couple years to source the parts before I started. The BH is a factory cast iron unit I bought from Brewers. The casting number matches one of the ones listed in the Slantsix site 4 speed article. Same article also says 3 speed fork and inspection cover interchange. In post 4 I...

Shifter linkage is adjusted perfectly. With factory parts I shouldn't have problems. Only variance was going to 10" clutch. Trans shifted fine and still does in the car as long as the engine is off.

The linkage is good. Adjusted with very little free play. As I said in post 4, modified pedal to 6" dimension. After several thousand miles with 3 speed, original Z-bar had fatigued and cracked where the lower lever arm was welded to it. The round tubing actually cracked and the arm had rotated...

Z bar bushings are perfect. Forgot to mention that I modified the pedal ratio. Added length to the 5-1/4" so it's now 6" like later HP pedals and Herb Mccandless mod. Also had the FW ground last summer on a real surfacer. The guy only had to take off .010 to clean up. 10" clutch was sourced...

1964 Valiant w/225, originally 3 on-the-tree. Now 1965 Barracuda A833 B&T trans swapped in. I originally thought my swap meet 65 trans was the easiest conversion because I wouldn't have to mess with the driveshaft and 7-1/4. It took a couple years to collect all the parts like the /6 BH, floor...

Have you considered running it on jackstands or a lift and listening to it with a stethoscope? Maybe you can pinpoint the exact location and go from there.

I just watched your video and noticed 2 things. First, you need to get that front lever (1st-rev) up to the neutral position or the cross-over blade will never grab it. Follow the instructions in the FSM. With the arms disconnected at the trans, it won't stay up. Second, that small screw near...

Looking at your pictures, the front most lever (1st-reverse) on the column needs to be forcibly moved up. The levers should be even with each other when in neutral. Pictures are from a 1968 FSM which seems to match your arrangement. This is to adjust the rod lengths. The screwdriver shown holds...

@Jim64 Before you put the trans back in the car, watch this video. You said it's a new gear set from Passon. Sounds like he didn't finish the cone properly.

I don't really know but my first inclination might be improper gear oil. Other more knowledgeable guys will chime in for sure. A call to Jamie or Brewer's might help but they were both st the Mopar Nats this weekend so best to wait a couple days.

Lokar makes a shifter that is slightly adjustable. AXISHIFT The Tremec shifter is right on the center of the tranny. In a Mopar, that looks abnormal to me. The TKX in DC Dart"s picture has the shifter in the rear position. It can be rotated 180* which moves it about 3" forward. Unfortunately...

No shims between 1-2 and 3-4. Go to Gearboxvideo on YouTube. Paul Cangiolosi has 4 videos on rebuilding Hurst shifters. His web site is 5speeds.com

A Tremec TKO is available with a Ford bolt pattern. I would have to say that it robably matches the Toploader. So one option would be to obtain an aluminum BH from Silver Sport Transmissions. Or use a QuickTime BH. This could get the trans physically mounted but you still have to deal with...

I pretty much did the same thing, trans is assembled but not in the car yet so not much help. Sorry. I give you guys in Europe a lot of credit for working on American iron over there. I bought a swap meet 833 to go in my Valiant. Seller said it worked fine when removed from a 65 Barracuda. (Of...