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Thanks. Didnt know that but it also ran my 289 Falcon and my 318 Duster.

found these while rooting around for something else.

Try this.

I used this instead of a fusible link and eliminated the bulkhead connector with the complete kit. Painless Wiring

I have them in my 2010 Hemi and my 1968 340.. they run great and read perfect. :thumbsup:

When I used to go on trips with my Taurus and park at a motel or somewhere I used to go in the trunk and trip the inertia switch. You have to give it a pretty good wack to make it trip out. Dont laugh,,, it had nice wheels. LOL

I have that switch from a Taurus. I think the button faced up

Yes

Incorrect, it is a latching solenoid. No draw

Painless Performance 30206 Painless Performance Remote Master Disconnect Kits | Summit Racing mine shuts eveything down but the radio memory and the ECU

thhttps://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-p4529797 this is the set I refer to.. read the reveiws.

dont use the Mopar ones... theyre orange but they dont fit

Happy New Year, everybody...:canada:

Happy New Year Steve, Ive got to add another number to my years too. Oh well. fresh pics, last ones of this decade.. It's hard to see cause the wiring is kinda hidden. Stealth wasn't the plan just to look clean. I filled the bulkhead connector and welded it gone. Had to put in two more small...

hey Steve,, ya I used the Painless Universal Musclecar 22 circuit I think maybe 16, dont remember. I eliminated the bulkhead and ran a single grommet thru the fire wall. All the wires were slid thru braided wrap. Downside of that is it's hard to trouble shoot because its not split. I ran the...

I used their 30206, latching solenoid with a momentary push button, works good,wired so it kills everything except the feed to the EFI. Painless Wiring

No can do, the wiring is buried in the car now. I used the wire harness part of the original from the front switch to the rear motor. Checked it and re taped it. When I plugged it in though I magically had two speeds. One thing I forgot to do was check the resistance of the two power wires.

My 67 Cuda has a resistor wire from the "on 1" position on the switch to the motor, no resistor at the motor. When I rewired the whole car I only had high blower speed so I had to find the resistor wire from the old harness.

put one ($$$$) in my 67 cuda,,,sounds good until you start the engine,,, radio cuts out and clips on USB input,,, rerouted wiring and insulated them,, still no good. be advised.

THANKS 1970,, a buddy of mine tried to tell me something similar about his drag racing days but he's a Chebby guy and sometimes I don't listen.

Yep ,,locked out

Ya, so I want to add more initial and get the rotor in the sweet spot and then I can add timing at the handheld for cruising. It usually happens cruising in OD then coming to a hill. Or just not run the spark box.

I agree, the issue I'm having is I'm using a Crane ignition box. When I set the phasing as "close" as I can, under high load, low rpm, I get a miss fire as if the multi strike is continuing long enough to hit the next cyl. When I disconnect the box and run straight from the FiTech (single spark)...

I'll be using the MSD adjustable rotor I need a cap with a hole drilled to check it's set correctly. Just don't want to run with a hole in the cap.

That's the problem I'm finding, That's female sockets I need male HEI posts.

Anyone know if there's a dime store dist cap that will fit a MSD pro billet dist. I need to phase my dist rotor for the FiTech on my 340. Can't bring myself to drill a hole in a $50+ cap. I'd like to know what Chevy year/engine would replace this cap just for the phasing process. Not up on all...

Looks the same to me Steve,, everything is as it was when I removed it. The grooves in the arms face each other and the tie rod is on the lower pin with the drive rod with the kink in it (toward the wiper pivot) goes on the top pin as installed on the car. the motor needs to be in park position...

wiper assembly from my 67 (2 speed)

you still haven't said where the engine vac is tied into the system

where did that diagram come from? the only check valve that's drawn correctly is labeled "new check valve" the instructions dont show any check valves. IMO there should only be one check valve, the one built into the booster and possibly one between the pump and the pressure switch if it is...