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just make sure the hard line does an upward 180 above the filler before it goes down thru the floor or you'll be spilling fuel when the tank is full.

my 67 is open to atmosphere outside the frame rail. I wouldn't want the frame to be full of fuel fumes. Dont connect it to the tank or it will suck the tank closed (collapsed) if the cap seals tight.

If you cut the braided hoses a couple of inches long then things can flex all they want. I dont think there would be much flexing anyway as you said.

just on the flexing issue, the copper lines should have a 360* loop in them. better yet braided hose and AN fittings but I dont want the canister inside the car either.

I cant remember Steve, was the door glass you have tinted or clear?? think Moparfest will be a nogo again?

I couldnt put a pic in a pm so I'll have to put them here...Larry

thanks Ken, I'll order one for my E code 67... wonder why they dont change the listing? Larry

Tell us how it fits please

they list every year BUT 67

FiTech Go 4 600. Also I had an issue with the ECU that I bought in 2015 and because of the issue they found FiTech (Anthony) is going to warrentee it. Thumbs up to FiTech.

I'm a TBI guy and I run leaner than stoich at idle also (14.8) and at or near stoich at cruise (14.6/7). Runs good.

They could do more precise fuel delivery with port.

With the FiTech being 900+ cfm and the ECU handling the fuel requirements the engine can have all the air it needs with EFI. I dont think a 900 CFM carb will be very streetable.

For me it's not about dyno it's about driveability and efficiency making the same power not so much more.

When was your unit purchased?

Be nice if they said thanks instead of oh oh your out of warrantee, pay up.

Also i have put over 9000km, 6000mi on it before this ride on a flatbed.

I think the in tank 340 is rated at 12 amp

I think ill do the relay this time. The tech did say " you have a 6 pin? Oh thats an old one" they use 4 an 2 pin now with upgraded wire.

Also i was running the pump on pwm. Tanks said i killed the pump ( gss 340) because of that but i tested the old pump after i got it changed and i think its a good spare. I think ecu was the prob not pump.

If i remember right theyre instruction say not to u dont need to

I bought a Fi Tech Go4 600 in 2015, didnt go into service till 2017 in the restoration. Engine has been making good power and mileage (hot cruiser) but I've always been making adjustments. 2018 they sent me a warrentee fuel injector (sticking, running rich). 2019 they sent 2 more and I bought 2...

dont know about the price drop but you'll need a wide band sensor and that will need a driver at extra cost, narrow band is mostly useless for tuning. Pretty to look at but they flip around a lot in my experience with them. My wide band is Speed Hut.

I used the standard bracket and cable on my 67 340 Barracuda with the Fitech and air gap. They should be available from the resto places.

I have run a FiTech 600 for 2 seasons,,,like it ,,but a friend has a new hotrod with a Sniper system on it that Ill be working with him on. Similar systems but Ill report my preference after a bit of time..

tank is baffled around the pickup only if I remember right.

I used their ball float type and it is affected by decel and accel a lot. I have a warning light and I set it at 4 liters on a 68 liter tank, at 1/4 tank the light is always going on and off.

On my FiTech I use one port for brakes and one for PCV but I run the PCV thru an air/oil separator. I dont collect nearly as much oil from the 340 as I do in my 2010 5.7 hemi. The 5.7 collects oil and water, but it runs in the winter though and makes short trips..

Are you worried about the oil mist from the PCV and the O2 sensor?

At idle look into the throttle bores . I had an injector go bad and was dumping fuel into the front left bore at about a cup/minute at idle. 4 carboned plugs (dual plane manifold) and the commanded AFR (14.7) was staying rich (12.5). put a new injector in and problem solved.