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Without seeing it I would be inclined to think that there's a loss of continuity somewhere between the light socket on the marker light and a ground source. So most likely.

You may have arced between the battery terminal on the starter too. The burn on the terminal can and does cause loss of conductivity. Take off the cable at the starter and clean it.

TDC is TDC regardless. You could put the cam in backwards or throw it in the trunk. The timing marks would line up when you're at TDC nonetheless. Your insulator may have slipped.

Looks like someone replaced the relay with a contraption of their own. Some days $11.95 is hard to come by, so you have to improvise.

I just bought an awesome test kit at harbor freight for six bucks. Comes with a test light for 6-12 volt another test light for 36 volt that you throw away, and a battery powered continuity tester. If you need 12 volts to make lights flash and horns honk, bring your battery in the house too.

Electrical problems can be a nightmare. It was not the the bigger alternator that was the problem. Current isn't pushed, it is drawn by a load. The lower the resistance, the more current is drawn. If somewhere there was a short to ground, you would have melted the wire. My advise is to find a...

If it gets too hot it will get brittle, but it would have to be hot enough to the point that the insulation would have melted.

You won't find a complete harness that goes from the headlights to the tail lights and covers everything in between. At least not that I know of. https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/chrysler.a.body/electrical/harness/engine-and-forward-lamp-harness...

It's the ground. It's always the ground. Unless it's not. Try cleaning the ground and make sure it has good contact before you do anything.

Correct. The situation described is the opposite of a bad ballast resistor condition.

I believe the word is "congloberation".

That's too hard. The easy way is to run the alternator wire through a toggle switch. A pretty stout toggle switch. One that'll handle the current. Then run another alternator wire through your battery switch. When at the track flip the toggle switch off or just disconnect the original alternator...

Yes you can.

Motor spins twice for every time the distributor turns once. So it's very possible to be firing on your exhaust stroke.

There is truth to the ground plane theory. My personal opinion is that there is enough ground plane in the fender, inner fender and frame to get the job done and done well. That said, the ground plane theory (fact) is mostly for transmitters such as CB, Ham type of radios and has less, if no...

I thought we controlled both gauges by regulating the negative side through a variable resistor or sending unit. What it looks like is the negative side of all the gauges somehow got tied directly to ground. If our ground is functioning through the resistor or sending unit it won't matter how...