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I replaced mine when the engine was out. It was after the engine was in that I realized that I didn't tighten the bolts all the way. I don't know how anyone else does it but I couldn't get any type of wrench in there to tighten them. It was only after the engine was out again that I could get...

Sounds like too much work. Just drill a new hole in your perch. I don't think you can do a quarter, but a half is probably doable. If you're dead set on a quarter you may have to weld the old hole shut so they don't overlap.

Not surprising. They were pretty sloppy back then.

It will work just fine after you move the perches. I have an Aspen rear in my Cuda.

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I rebuilt my front end. It was perfect when I was done. I took it to a shop to get it aligned. The counter guy told me it was too far out of spec to align. I said okay, but he tried to charge me a rack fee. After much arguing with him and his "tech" it was confirmed that his computer couldn't...

Did you try turning your front hangers over?

I've just taken my upper arms off and taken them to a shop and had them swap the ball joints out.

I got a CE kit and it fits just fine. So. To answer your question. Yes, I would recommend it. You will need more plates if you intend to follow NHRA rules. On a unibody you're supposed to sandwich the body between two plates. Or weld the entire plate to the floor. That scares the hell out of me...

I just checked Amazon. They still sell those things.

Did you turn the front hanger upside down? That'll lower it a little too. Usually an inch or better.

No. Looks like somebody hit a curb.

No. I didn't buy the Moog. As a rule I usually buy the one that's one step down from the most expensive part. As it was the Lower Ball Joint in Moog was only $18.60

You remove the snap ring and beat the old one out with a hammer. On a Ford like that it's pretty handy because you don't have to drive the old one out from the bottom. If you can think of a way to get the new one in without a press let me know. It took all the grunt I had to install the new ones...

An adjustable snubber might help too. Set it about an inch below the pan. It won't help going around corners but there isn't too many corners at the drag strip.

You'll be able to get away with a little more back spacing. How much room do you have between the tire and the spring?

The Mopar Chassis Manual is something that nobody should ever be caught without.

The correct answer as to how much one turn will lift the car depends on too many things. Bar diameter, how weakened they've become over time, day it was made, color of car etc...

With a Mopar you'll find that shackles will do nothing except flatten out the back of the spring without raising the car any noticeable amount. In a Brand X car with the rear axle centered 50/50 there will be some considerable raising of the back of the car. In a Mopar the rear axle is 70/30...

The higher the front end goes the more negative the camber will become. The upper arm will drop and pull the top in. But to answer your question directly No. You will have an eccentric (cam) on the upper control arm that does that. There's two of them that adjust camber and caster.