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Just in case.....it's also a good idea to hone with deck plates to simulate any bore distortion that the head bolts may cause when assembled. Some people go so far as to use the same head gasket that goes into final assembly as well as bolt on a head or deck plate on the other side and...

Agreed! I've gotten at least a tenth better performance going from a 3310 750 vacuum secondary to a 4779 double pumper after spending time tuning both on the same combo.

Regardless of brand, many people leave out the front & rear end gaskets and just use silicone. Some end gaskets squeeze out and others are too thick or hard and don't let the intake sit low enough. Make sure the intake lines up properly with the side gaskets in place. Depending on any other...

I believe the originals took a socket to remove. I don't recall the size off-hand but it was a pain because there wasn't much For the socket to grab on to. The internal 3/8" drive was a welcome change.

Looks like a Milodon small block. But you'll have to determine the part # based on the sump depth of the pan being used. If the pan is not Milodon, you'll have to do some careful measuring as they have 5 qt. (OEM), 7 qt. & 8 qt. pans with center (front) sumps & check internal clearances. At...

RAS installs bushings in the rockers using the original bore and adds smaller diameter shafts with thicker walls. I believe they correct the individual ratios in the process and include new 12 point adjusters and hold-downs in their package deal. Bushings are drilled and/or blocked in the rocker...

The "aftermarket" Mopar Performance rods were made from 4340 steel. There was the standard/HD 340 based version & a "lightweight" 273 based forging. I did have some of the lightweight rods and they had "Mopar" cast into one side of the beam. But there may have been more than one vendor during...

It's gotta be just the right size, but it's a regular "cup", like a baby freeze plug, that is installed from the rear main end of the block and it bottoms out about 1/2 way to the oil pressure sending unit next to the distributor. It should come out for proper cleaning and needs to be installed...

:rofl: Oh boy, nothing like putting out a fire with a bucket of gas! :poke: But the thread has run it's course will all opinions represented.

Like I said, tensioners have their place. It's not always possible to get a proper fitting, tight chain, and gear drives aren't legal in some classes. I'm also looking at it from a strictly race perspective. Just another part that can wear/break and any reduction in friction or wear is a plus...

If I knew how, I would have photo-shopped "Timing Chain Tensioner" in place of BAND-AID.:) Tensioners have their place, especially for high mileage applications. But adding friction and wear, however small, doesn't sound like a good idea.

Cloyes may have had one of the original "true roller" timing chains in part # 9-3103 for Mopar small blocks. I've used them almost exclusively for decades & I believe they were sold under the Direct Connection/Mopar Performance label as well. I believe they have discontinued the old number and...

* OEM 1974 heads tend to be 3671587. * 3418915 heads tend to have letters by the spark plug holes and originally have 2.02" or 1.88" intakes, including T/A heads. * 2531894 were all X heads with 2.02" intakes. * At some point the casting number was moved from the top of the intake runners...

In my opinion, the "plain" Edelbrock Performer won't be any better than an early OEM TQ intake even in stock applications but it saves weight. The RPM & Air-Gap would likely be a step up and both are identical internally. Downside there is that any adapters being used to go from square to spread...

Cam manufacturer should be able to match some beehive springs with the proper pressures. They would provide plenty of rocker-to-spring/retainer clearance even if you have to with slightly bigger diameter springs.

I used Comp Cams 26056 beehives set up to have near 200 lbs closed & 400 lbs open. But this is on IHRA Crate Stocker engines with .474" lift, lots of duration, steep ramps and Schubeck/Smith flat tappet hydraulic lifters with a "composite puck". I did run about 160/360 lbs until I "accidently"...

Titanium retainers usually have a bigger diameter to use with bigger diameters race springs. That appears to be part of the interference issue. Cool option but unnecessary. I like the beehive spring option if you can find one with the appropriate specs. Beehives solved the same problem on my...

Correct on the 5/16" diameter for OEM 340-6 pushrods. The length was something like 7.21" or 7.23" with the hydraulic lifters. 273 pushrods with adjustable rockers and solid lifters were 7.50".

No pics or TTI info but there are different opinions regarding their use or need. I've raced for over 40 years and never had a problem without them. Less clutter to get in the way during any type of servicing also.

If the Milodon pan you all are talking about is their 8 qt, then be careful which headers you use. TTI and Dougs will fit. There are a couple of others I'm not sure about. But the kicked out oil pan sump will interfere with the headers on the passenger side. The notch required to clear the front...

The factory rating was 275 through 1971 but the 340-6bbl T/A & AAR was 290. It's common knowledge that they were very conservative numbers. In 1972 the 340 lost compression and went to smaller intake valves. The factory started using a "net" rating which was advertised at 240. The '74 360 was...

FWIW, An Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap is the same internally as a regular Edelbrock RPM. The "air-gap" can be worth a few HP (Minor jetting changes may be helpful.) but the regular version may be available for a little less cash.

Magnaflux heads for seat cracks before putting any money into them or selling your other heads..

FWIW - I don't have any flow numbers, but swapping a set of 587 heads w/1.88-1.60 valves for a set of LAX w/1.92-1.625 valves with about 4cc smaller chambers resulted in about 2/10 better 1/4 mile ET in my 360 Dart Sport. Ports were as cast, similar valves and same valve job on both. Same...

The heavier duty 727 and having the weighted converter are pluses. But more reasons against the 727 are that you won't have to change the driveshaft if you keep the 904, you know the condition of your existing trans and you won't have to mess with the trans linkage & cooler lines. FWIW, does...

As someone who was there, you provided interesting & accurate details. I was just trying to make sure everyone knew what it applied to and where fell into the Mopar crate motor timeline. Thanks!

Is the difference 1.660" H116CP vs 1.675" KB107 I thought I heard that KB Pistons was a supplier at one point. Mopar always shopped around.

Flattop Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons H116CP! :thumbsup: