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.....with a small converter snout and different splines that don't interchange with the more common later versions

New converter that's either balanced for a 360 or with the appropriate B&M flexplate. The current converter also has a smaller snout and spline count that's not compatible with later transmissions. I keep forgetting what year torqueflite converter snouts and input spline counts "normalized"...

There is usually 1 or 2 tabs on the crossbar in the main hoop to mount the shoulder harness ends. NHRA belts are only good for 2 years so you may be able to find one or a pair of used ones to use. I always used a V-style shoulder belt using a 1/2" Grade 8 one bolt mount for my application which...

The rule of thumb is to have about one thread of the adjuster showing on the underside. That's the recommended setting for optimum lift and correct position of the pushrod cup to get "squirted". Much more or much less thread (hitting the rocker) showing, you'll need longer or shorter pushrods...

Keep in mind that your early 273 has a smaller snout on the converter. Starting in '66, I believe, 273, 318, 340 & 360 engines had a bigger register in the crank and corresponding bigger snout on their converters. Unfortunately, it's not a simple converter swap because the input shaft splines...

The '65 273 has a small snout converter that won't have the proper support in the bigger, 318 crank register. There use to be a reducer ring available, but one might have to fabricate their own. You can't swap converters in the original trans to a newer one because the splines are different...

Very doubtful because I'm pretty sure early A-bodies have the smallest engine compartments of any OEM Mopar V-8 application. Fenderwell headers were popular on them back in the day because of that. B & E are often the same, but still may depend on manufacturer. Similar discussion here: Header...

This is some general info. Others with more internal torqueflite knowledge may offer more details. * Late '70's or early 80's started getting lock-up converters. Input shaft splines are different so converters do not interchange. They can be converted to take the more common converters by...

Are you familiar with what to look for in a 904 & their differences? (i.e.: lock-up/non lock-up and later std. size converter snout & splines as opposed to early small snout?)

Some p/u's had short tailshaft torqueflites. I don't know what applications used them, but you should be able to tell visually. Mounting points would still be the same, but you'd need a longer than normal driveshaft.

You said yourself that you plan on attending the races ONLY as a spectator. But you would have gotten better advice at a car show. At a drag strip, most people have horsepower and going faster on their minds. Keep the 273, fix it up they way you want and enjoy it. It's a light car so the...

It started out as a Stock Eliminator thread but SS got included. Member Victory273 has a 273 Barracuda in SS/K with pics and more info. (Or is that a Valiant?) I believe the Bushmaker family has a 273 Barracuda also, but it may be a Stocker...

No experience with it, but I am also curious how it can fit such a variety of wheelbases (106"-111"?) and years, unless "trimming" is required. Would fabricating from scratch be an option? You could save on shipping too.

X2 Perhaps you're mixing up the rear end with wheelbase, which is different.

Yes, the 360 is externally balanced so it needs a flywheel for a "regular" 360 or Magnum 360, depending which you use. They are balanced differently. The early 273 cranks also have a smaller register for a converter snout to fit into. Not into sticks so I don't know if that would affect...

The notch in the k-member is not enough to worry about. It's confined to the lip area, not in the boxed area. But welding a bead across the cut section would be a lot easier than cutting up a nice oil pan! Besides, I like the fact that the 8 qt. is flared and a little shallower than the...

That sounds similar to a Milodon 8 qt pan. The k-member needs a notch cut out of it for ther right front corner of the oil pan. I believe it barely clears in the car, but installation and removal of the engine with the pan requires the notch. This is on later a-bodies.

It looks good! But if I may offer a little advice - I'd feel more comfortable with the driveshaft loop being bolted in with 8 bolts instead of 4. My loop got twisted pretty good the last time I lost a driveshaft.