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The same things would also apply to a small block 6 pac set up?

Thanks for the info. It will be banked for when I get to mine.

Of course, that is guaranteed.

I don't doubt what anyone is saying, I like the cool factor. I'm not planning on racing or getting every bit of HP out of it. It's what I have, and I would like to go with it. At least it ain't another LS like Power Block TV. LOL

This is for the Captain. Since you can't just attach pictures to PM's, you have to link it to some other photo sharing site, he asked to see a shot of the 6 pack set up I got with my 340. I feel I got a good deal. Also came with what looks like original style air cleaner assy? Here's the picture

Ok cool. Here is an article from Hot Rod networking on 6 pack tuning. At the end it lists the name, Promax that Rumble mentioned. They explain without power valves in the outboards it can be tricky to get them to open without bogging it, or not bogging and sacrificing HP...

It looks like the diaphragm housing is similar. I wondered the same thing about changing springs. I found a few sites for tweaking the carbs, and adjustment tips. Haven't done so cause worried about hijacking.

Ok thanks, I knew I had something worded wrong. But the metering plates make jet changes easier right? At least that's what I got out of it. Heres a video showing the lag to the outboards opening up. On a dyne, maybe that's one reason, I don't know. I trust your guys knowledge more than my...

Don't they make throttle plates with angled idle adjustment screws now for the outboard carb? And metering blocks that make jet changes easier? I thought I saw somewhere it is available now.

Check fuel filter first. Don't throw money at it.

Upgrade the fuel system with bigger lines first. Bigger engine needs more food, feed it with more gas from bigger fuel lines first off.

Don't let yourself get intimidated. It looks complicated but the idea is very basic. It don't have a mind of its own. Make it do what its supposed to do. It could be as simple as an adjustment.

Not very familiar with that year BBD. Is there a release? It might be an adjustment to the linkage itself? There is a cam on the gas linkage side, at least on the BBD for my 70. Its stepped so the choke opens dependant on how warm the car is.

If the choke is not fully open when warm, that's why its running rich. With the butterfly not fully open when warm, the air/fuel ration is off. Less air, but more gas. When the butter fly is fully open when warm, you'll have a air/fuel ratio. But until that butterfly is fully open when warm...

Maybe no CFM numbers, just cubic inch numbers. Still looking.

Look at the VERY bottom of this list. I'm sending the link, maybe listed elsewhere. Hope it helps. http://www.carburetion.com/Kits/chrysler.htm

I would first try to start it without any pump on the peddle if it only sat an hour, or at the most a small 1/4 to 1/2 pump. You yourself said it seemed kinda flooded. Or give it a small pump when it's turning over. Hopefully you won't have to go through everything to see if it's a major problem.

Pump is stock, and so I don't know pressure. No, I have not changed the sock yet. But I did notice that the intake end of the filter was lower than the line to the carb. So I gently bent the fuel line so that the outlet to the carb was lower than the intake side. This way the gas won't drain out...

Ok, I have this '70 Dart with a 318. When the car sits overnight, the gas drains out of the fuel filter. I have to crank the daylights out of it to get the gas back up. I got the car started, but it seemed as though there was not enough gas in the filter at first. After running about 10 minutes...