Search results for query: *

Everyone thank you so much for all the help in explaining the situation to someone who isn’t as well versed in the electrical aspect of things. Explaining it in greater detail and simpler has been a tremendous help. In fact the problem was at the fuse box. One of the fuses shown in the...

So the first thing I’ll do is check each fuse in the fuse panel under the dash. I’ll put a test light in each connection to make sure it lights up. I know that may not guarantee that the fuse box isn’t shorting or corroded but it’s a start. Then I took pics of all the grounds on my car. Fire...

Also remembered my directionals work but my hazards do not.

Thank you for the attached schematic.

First off everyone I’m still in the very rudimentary learning phase when it comes to electrical in the car. I have a lot to learn so if it’s not explained in steps and clearly I get lost. Sorry about that but I’m just being honest and really trying to learn. I also know that fooling with...

Oh sorry car is 1967 Dart gts 383 4 speed.

So I just went through a bit of drama pulling the front of my engine apart to reseal my timing cover to my oil pan. Now that is all fixed I don’t have any dash lights, dome light, or rear tail lights when my headlights are on. I know I had a dome light before the reassembly of the engine. I...

Thank you everyone for the pics. They definitely ensured that what I finally figured out was the correct way to go. The only thing I need is some new hardware which I’m buying today.

Okay so I’m trying to reassemble my alternator and bracketry on my 67 dart and I didn’t take any clear photos of how it was bolted on. I’ve been struggling with how to put all the brackets back and mount the alternator properly. I have included the 2 main brackets that are part of the...

Thank you everyone for all the input. I’ve heard a few different answers and solutions. Overall if I make sure that the engine is TDC on cylinder #1 and I put the distributor in so that the rotor faces plug wire #1 I should be safe and in good shape. Is that fair to say? If so that is what I...

Oh I also forgot to mention. I have been determining TDC on cylinder 1 when dampener at zero and I move crank back and forth a little rockers on cylinder 1 don’t move at all because I’m assuming that means I’m on compression stroke for cylinder 1 and both valves are closed. Instead cylinder 6...

I can’t bump the engine because I also pulled off the exhaust, starter, and upgraded the torsion bars and suspension. In order to do this I pulled everything underneath out to make it easier to remove exhaust suspension etc. Could it be that when I turned the engine off the rotor just happened...

So I’m attempting to put my engine back to gather after many upgrades to it. Aluminum heads roller rockers new timing chain and set. Doing all this myself by learning and this website. I’m a bit confused at this point? I use this website and the technical how to forums to do most of my work...

I would say if it is a 1967 factory 383 car then it came with 516 heads that had the smaller intake and exhaust valves. Moving to the 915 closed chambered heads on the 67 hi-po 440 cars would be a good step up. Even better would be to put oversized intake and exhaust valves I think approx 2.18...

Looking for advice on finding and or making a metal heat shield for my 67 GTS 4 speed. It has a Mancini racing Mopar mini starter on it. If don't want to wrap it but would rather buy or design a metal heat shield. Is it harder to find something for 4 speed car? Carl

I'm in the process of replacing and removing some of the wires running to my bulkhead connector. How do you get the wired connections out of the black plastic connectors that clip onto the firewall bulkhead? Is it easier to just cut the wires slide on new male connections crimp and slide into...

I'm in the process of replacing the fuseable link and doing other changes to my bulkhead connector. I blew my fuseable link a couple of weeks ago and contacted Evans Wiring to replace it among some other things. I noticed that the back end of the new fuseable link opposite from bulkhead...

John, Del and all others I can't thank you guys enough for helping me diagnosis and fix my problems. There is a sense of satisfaction in figuring out and doing things yourself even if it comes with mishaps. I called Bill Evans at Evans Wiring. Super nice guy helped me with a lot and I...

John When I try to ground the instrument cluster this time I don't want to make a similar mistake. Could I just run that black ground to a screw/bolt in the metal casing of the instrument cluster? Like put it under the screw which holds down the radio suppressor? Carl

John It appears it is just the harness connector. I could hopefully replace the harness connector transfer over all the connections and put in a new fuseable link. Do you think that would work? Do you have a harness connector I could buy from you? Would this problem kill all power to the...

Last one

More

More

More pics

Everyone I did some work and took some pics so there is a clear understanding of where I'm at and what happened. You can see the fuse link connection at the firewall that burned out. There is some melted plastic where the fuse link plugged into the bulkhead connector. You also can see how my...

Ok I have been reading into a replacement fuseable link. I know that my alternator on my dart has been rebuilt to charge up to 60 amps and I have an electronic conversion to a 6A MSD ignition. Do I have to take that into consideration when buying a fuseable link? Also I have read that the...

Guys the black wire which was connected to the back of the old voltage limiter is anchored to a bolt coming off the steering column. I'm think it is a ground. I think my mistake was to ground it on the same post on back of cluster that red wire bolts to. I think the red wire carries a lot of...

I did Rocky and put everything back to where it was before. Lights worked everything worked except no dash lights because cluster not grounded. I hope I can relatively easily fix the problem and ground the cluster properly. It was previously grounded to the back of the old voltage limiter. I...

Obviously I know just enough to get in trouble. Is it possible that by connecting the black ground to red lead on back of cluster I burnt up the connection at the engine bay harness and if I traced out the problems with a schematic and test light I could fix the problem or just go with a brand...

I think I got a big problem. I tried soldering a prong to the back of the updated new voltage limiter to look like the old one so I could run the ground to it. The problem is I couldn't get the rosin to stick. So I figured I'd just connect the black ground wire to the circuit board off one of...