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Yep, I have it on my Dart. Works great, lights are nice and bright, I used the GE Nighthawk's that he recommends.

Scrapped my idea that I posted a couple weeks ago, of the aluminum buss bar, and went with this little accessory fuse block from Jegs. This is powering my relays for, fuel pump, ignition, and a couple other things I still have to ad. But it's working great so far.

67Dart273, I have a related question. On our old A-bodies, say everything is working properly, what level should the alternator be charging? I've done the madd ammeter bypass, and I've added a relay to my ign, as you have suggested in many of these posts. I'm now running a volt meter, and I'm...

Damn !

Ok, I'll save the bolts and connectors, and junk the rest. Looks like there's plenty of options available online for busbars and accessory fuse boxes, and actually pretty cheap.

Ok then, that's why I asked. Thanks.

Made up this power distribution block the other day. But thought I'd check with the experts before I start wiring this into the car. Ok to use aluminum for this ? This would be bolted to the inner fender near the firewall, mounted with nylon bolts and washers, and I will be making a cover for it...

You might check out this thread in the electrical section. Fuel Gauge Sending Units compared

On a related subject. Sometime soon i'll be doing a custom gauge panel with Autometer Ultra Lite gauges. Let say the stock sending unit is 80 - 10 like the original poster said. Several different autometer gauges are available with differing ohm ranges. The ones that are closest to 80 - 10 are...

I have that spectra unit, and with mine it seems like it can be reading empty on the gauge, so I put like 6 gallons in it and the gauge will read full. So I'm not really sure of anything the gauge says.

Yep, I'm very happy I did this upgrade. I think the lights on my Dart are now better than the lights on my modern daily driver.

Yep, great setup, I put one on mine a few months back with great results. Only difference is I went with the GE Nighthawks that he recommends. Lights are better than my modern daily driver now.

you could just glue some hair around it.

Here's mine.

I recently changed out all the bulbs in my 68 dash. It was pretty much impossible to get to them all with the dash still in place. Too tight of a space, too much stuff in the way, and too many sharp jagged things to dig into your hands and arms

How do you know its not his daily driver?

I get what your doing with the calibration unit, etc. But aren't you / we still going to have to extend the arm that the float is on to the correct length too?

I just did the relay install with the GE Nighthawks and the results are amazing! Well worth cost

Haven’t been to one in years! Around here they went away a long time ago.

Yes I did

If I remember correctly, the madd electrical bypass shows doing away with the bulkhead connectors for the two wires we’re talking about. And drilling out the plastic and running continues wire through and back out, thus eliminating the connectors altogether. At least that’s how I did mine

Thanks Rusty, that's exactly the kind of info I needed. Pretty sure I have to stick with the group 24, unless I buy bigger battery boxes, and modify the mount to make room. Its a dual battery system.

what should I be looking for, Cold cranking amps, or amp hours? Just wondering what will last the longest is a camper application, group 24 size deep cycle. Any ideas how to compare different ones?

Easiest way to remove dash cluster - Dynamite! Second easiest way, follow the directions posted above.

I did as 67Dart273 suggested on my '68 and it fixed my overcharging, and my flickering headlights too.

Thats where mine has been for many years. But up till now the car has seen limited use. But has been driven on lots of 90 degree+ days and never had a problem.

Here's a little video. First view shows the problem, 2nd and 3rd view show the result.

Update: Big thanks to 67Dart273, and Superchargeddrt. This fix worked perfectly, while I was at it I replaced some wires completely, new connectors everywhere, crimped, then soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing. Now, with the car off, but key in "run" position. I can probe the Ing wire...

I’m not seeing a pic?

Those look nice, but is that $156 each or for a pair?