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Damn that sucks! I bought a pair of those nice silicone bypass hoses from Mancini a couple years back because the normal rubber ones you get now always swell and degrade after a year or 2. Did a quick search just now and I can't find them anymore, except from Amazon or eBay.

Did you fill the block with coolant through the thermostat housing before installing the t-stat? I had a similar incident the first time I overhauled the original 318 in my Duster, since then I've just filled the block before putting in the t-stat and it's been fine.

Glad I saw this thread, my '72 D200 had A/C from the factory but I gutted the compressor and lines soon after getting the truck running. Colorado summers were bearable without A/C but now that I'm in Georgia that's definitely not the case. I see Original Air has an upgrade kit for '72-'78 D/W...

The "type" of water you use won't have an effect on how cool your engine runs. It only affects how much deposits will build up in your cooling system over time. It might be best to change the title of the thread or start a new one asking for solutions to your hot-running issue. My first guess...

Well I for one already knew that, lol. I just wanted the extra "ceiling" for when my truck is pulling heavy loads or my Duster is running around a road course. In normal street driving (except for maybe bumper-to-bumper traffic which is rare where I live) all the "high flow" stuff does nothing.

Looks awfully close to the Milodon high-flow t-stat, I have one in both my D200 and Duster along with ECP aluminum radiators and high-flow water pumps. Neither ever have cooling issues. I've towed my Duster on a U-Haul trailer with that truck to a track and back over I-25 when I was in CO...

Dehumidified defrost I think is more of a "luxury" allowing you to defrost the windshield without needing to turn up the air temperature (although more of a necessity in warmer humid climates like where @Demonracer is). The process of heating air in itself lowers the relative humidity, that's...

My mistake, limited personal experience strikes again lol. I haven't messed with any slant-6 A-bodies myself, my Duster was originally a 318 car with A/C and came with the 22" 3-row radiator. I got an aluminum 26" radiator from ECP and it was a pretty easy swap, just had to massage the lower...

Edited, I was incorrect... move along lol

I've just found that using the same material t-stat housing as the intake manifold keeps it from leaking. I check the bolt threading depth and use a regular paper gasket with light film of gray RTV on both sides. Also coat the bolt threads with liquid PTFE. Lightly thread in the bolts just...

That sucks lol although I believe 2006 started the next generation (B6?) and I believe those are a bit simpler. There are about 10 coolant hoses in there for all the different coolers and such. This one happened to go behind the engine (sits north-south even though it's FWD) and there is NO...

At least they're fairly straightforward, not like working on a German car from the same time period. Try changing a coolant hose on a 2005 VW Passat TDI, you'll be ready to douse the car in gas and set it on fire.

My Buick has the supercharged 3800, 160k miles and those plastic coolant tubes haven't failed *yet*. Something on my to-do list for sure. I love those engines though, Chrysler never made anything comparable. Drives like a healthy V8 but gets 27 MPG on the highway.

Watch the show or read the comics of Dilbert, one of the very few series that accurately portrays what it's like to work as an engineer for a big American corporation. He constantly struggles with clueless leadership trying to get unrealistic goals done unrealistically fast with unrealistically...

I appreciate that. It seems to be working decently now after I cleaned and greased the actuator rod but it would still be nice to know where to get those things. Right now the bigger issue is getting that door to close and seal properly in the right position.

So the grease helped but I noticed the rod is over-extending because the seals going around the recirc door and the hole in the fender are gone so the door moves farther than it's supposed to in the closed position. I can see the door through the recirc vent under the dash but can't reach it...

A while back I got a tube of Parker Seals brand O-ring lubricant which works wonders sealing and lubing rubber parts. If that doesn't work I'll see about carefully removing the grommet/wiper and try the Simple Green trick. I actually just found a YouTube video on using Simple Green to restore...

I pulled apart the heater box to replace the heater core last winter and I know the door isn't binding up. I have a strong feeling it's the rubber grommet that seals the rod to the canister because it works perfectly pulling the door to the open position but has some trouble pulling it closed...

This is the guy, canister-looking thing

The vacuum pot that actuates the air-recirculating door on my '72 Dodge truck is going out (has a hard time returning the door to closed position), anyone know where to find a replacement? Or if there is a way to "repair" it? I'm guessing the diaphragm inside has a small tear or leak of some...

I use ECP radiators ECP | No Gimmick Cooling They have detailed drawings and specs on their site of all the dimensions, fittings, etc. I also like them because they use the newer super-wide 2-row design as opposed to the traditional 3-row which is less efficient. Prices are pretty good as...

Which ones are different, and how "different" are we talking? I run green Prestone in my Duster (or generic store-brand green in a pinch) with a bottle of Water Wetter or equivalent. I also make sure to drain and refill the coolant every 2-3 years since that's just what you gotta do with the...

Some YT video I watched recently about Gen 3 Hemis mentioned that even stock they put out a lot of heat and thermal management can be tricky. So I'd reckon it's not abnormal for yours to be running on the hot side and having a tough time keeping it cool. The only way I can see an air dam...

That's better than having the corners sealed with a flat shroud though. As long as the fan can move enough air through that 75% or so of fin surface area it'll work fine and driving down the road at speed the air will be able to freely flow through the entire rad, not that I'd recommend it...

Pull the fan and shroud and test with them off first before spending money and time adding stuff to your car that you might not need and might not solve your problem anyway...

Exactly, G3 Hemis weren't designed to run with mechanical fans except in trucks and those fans are gigantic. Just like our old carbed engines weren't designed to run with electric fans. It takes some work and know-how to get that stuff right, thermal management is no joke.

First thing I'd be trying is taking off the fan and shroud completely then quickly jumping on the freeway and seeing if the problem still exists. If it runs cooler, bam there's your issue. If it turns out to be the fan/shroud... I'd dump that shroud entirely and just mount the fan basically up...

Lol idk I just did 2022-330 and got 1692. Didn't want to think about it too much, figured it would get the point across hahaha. I always make mistakes when typing too but I'm super obsessive-compulsive about proofreading so I always have to read over a message or text before sending lol.

Right? LMAO!

Dang I didn't know you could get a big block Chrysler V8 back in 1692! Lol sorry couldn't resist :D