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I think I figured it out... I started thinking about grounding and after looking around I didn't see any ground straps going from the cab to the frame. I assume the factory relied on the cab mount bolts for electrical grounding. Well mine have some good surface rust being 50+ years old so I...

I agree with this approach. Another helpful technique is to use a mity-vac (hand vacuum pump) when adjusting the VA can as it will show what inHg corresponds to the amount of advance added. Use a vacuum gauge on the engine while driving to find what the manifold vacuum is at idle and cruising...

I was planning to have the battery load tested but I went out today after the truck had been sitting a couple days and the voltage was at 12.6 at the terminals. Then while cranking over the voltage at the battery terminals only dropped to 11.3 which is 2.5 more than the ignition box needs at...

The power wires are connected directly to the battery. My issue is with the wire that tells the module to turn on, supposed to be connected to 12V ignition on source. About 4 years, it's a Duracell from Batteries Plus so I'd be surprised if it's already going bad but the truck has always been...

This past weekend I redid the engine-to-frame ground, also cleaned and added some conductive paste (copper anti-seize) to the starter-to-bellhousing bolts thinking that wasn't grounded well. The starter turns over a bit faster but the voltage drop when cranking still seems to be pretty high. I...

I have a 1972 D200 that I installed a Pertronix Digital HP ignition system on along with Summit billet (mag pickup) distributor. I have an issue where the voltage to the wire that tells the box to turn "on" sometimes drops below the minimum voltage during cranking. Oftentimes if I crank the...

The Summit billet distributor I have has the same style of internals. I'm trying to wrap my head around how changing the amount of mechanical advance changes the initial spring tension...?

Summit Billet distributor is a good piece, I have the SBM version on both of my Mopars (Duster and D200, both with 360s). Mag pickup inside just like the factory Mopar electronic ones and a similar style of mechanical advance system but IMO easier to adjust and comes with an assortment of...

Just performed the checks, looks like the regulator is bad. Saw a max voltage of 0.4-0.5 between the body of the regulator and battery negative post with the headlights on and blower motor running, with those things off it was less than 0.1V. It did last 5+ years but when I pulled the VR off...

Thanks, I don't know how I missed that... duhh lol

I know this thread is a bit old but figured it was better to respond here than start a new one. I have a slight overcharging issue in my '70 Duster, where should I put the voltmeter leads when probing the voltage regulator and what should I be reading to determine if the problem is the...

How much weight did all that sound deadening add? I thought about doing that on my '70 Duster but I don't really drive it very long distances (over 100 miles) much anymore and the car is gradually becoming more track-oriented. Main reason I don't drive it a lot though is due to the road and...

Well I found a bunch of sites trying to sell paperback copies for way too much and pointless CDs with a PDF on it (it's not 2004 anymore guys come on lol) but finally came across this site that actually lets you directly download a digital copy. Wow! lol Service Manual, Repair Manual, OEM...

Makes sense, I'm not sure if that's how it's wired though. As far as I could see that part of the wiring is still factory. I need to get a FSM for this truck, I got a Chilton's manual and of course it's basically useless, the wiring diagrams in there didn't tell me a whole lot.

I've had this truck a few years now and when I first got it I removed quite a bit of add-on wiring that previous owners had put in, I assume for powering stuff in their camper as that's what this truck spent most of its life as. One issue I still have though is if I go to crank the engine with...

That's so cool, I didn't know I needed one of those until I saw this thread... LOL Seriously, that's DAMN COOL. One issue I had in the past with an electronic distributor, the phasing of the reluctor wheel was off because the roll pin was in the wrong slot. Most of the reluctor wheels have 2...

It's been pretty dang solid the past few times I drove the car since doing the regulator relay mod, even at idle. Lights still dim a bit but no more flickering. I'll have to dive deep into my wiring to find the bad connection as I did the ammeter bypass slightly different than the "MAD" method...

I "cleaned" and lubed the bulkhead connector and rechecked, same voltage. I wouldn't be surprised if the ignition switch is on its way out it's never been touched in the 11 years I've had the car and I doubt it was replaced before I got it.

I think I've narrowed it down to the bulkhead connector. I'm going to clean things up as best I can and put some dielectric grease in there see if it makes a difference. Everything under the hood checked out OK but both sides of the ballast resistor gave around 10.8V instead of 12.3-ish like...

Thank you for the images that really helps me understand what's going on. I'll test the voltages at the places you mentioned when I have some free time over the next couple days and report back.

Sorry we're posting really quick check post #59. I thought the bad connection would be in the ignition switch itself?

Well it seems to be all fixed now but... no I left the connector plugged into the regulator and measured straight into the blue wire (punctured it with my pointy multimeter leads) and got 1.5 volts with the key turned to Run position with the engine off. The Mallory box has power leads going...

Success!! I went and bought a relay from the parts store and wired it up, didn't work at first because for some dumb reason I connected to the starter stud instead of the battery stud. Now I have a hair over 14V when charging and it's steady, no more wobbling gauge or flickering lights! Yayy!

Alright I checked most of the charging circuit and didn't come up with anything. BUT then I checked voltage from the blue wire right at the VR to the battery pos terminal with the key in the Run position and got, are you ready? .... 1.5 Volts! Looks like I need either a new ignition switch or...

The Mallory box needs a minimum of 11.something volts to turn on, less than that = no spark. Today I got my new battery and it's a beast, unfortunately it did nothing for my flickering lights/voltmeter issue. I also scraped the paint off the firewall where the voltage regulator mounts and it...

Thanks for the link I read through your write-up, still not understanding fully what all the internal parts do so I'm gonna read my 1970 Plymouth FSM about it. I doubt the alternator is in that bad of shape it's only a few years old but it is a reman'd unit from O'Reillys. Also no the voltage...

IIRC either that brand is now Duracell or at least Batteries Plus sells those and East Penn/Deka as well. I put a Duracell Ultra in my Jeep, best battery I've had so far just from overall cranking power esp. when the weather is really cold. Even Interstates are made by JC now it sucks, and one...

Here's what I have in mind, I'm done with all the rebranded Johnson Controls junk but I don't have the money to step up to an AGM battery (Optima): Duracell Ultra Gold Battery for 1970 Plymouth Duster V8 5.2L 375CCA Optional Car and Truck - SLI24M at Batteries Plus Bulbs

The battery is the only thing I've changed in the electrical system since the last time it was running and I'm pretty sure it has a dead cell, last winter I took it out of my Jeep to put in a new one since it was losing a lot of charge overnight in cold outside temps... I've been keeping it on a...

OH forgot to mention the battery is an old hunk o' junk might that cause these issues also?