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Looks like the other good people here are helping out, only advice I can give for future mods to your Mopar is to go with smaller companies that specialize in Mopar-specific parts and kits. You won't see them advertised much and the Chevy mouth-breathers will usually have never heard of them...

My vote is also for the Doctor Diff Stage 2 brake kit. I installed that setup on my '70 Duster over the summer and it was a breeze. Kit came with EVERYthing, all the hardware, clips, wheel bearings, seals, splash shields (with foam gaskets), fresh new calipers with nice black powdercoating...

Maybe look at an add-on second caliper like the drift guys use? Those are usually hydraulic but you could probably find a cable-operated one.

I think I remember your thread about your issues, it's the red Charger with the Cobra brakes right? In that case I agree you need more pedal force than manual brakes can provide. However when I looked into it while debating whether to get the Cobra kit or Mopar-based discs with 11.75" rotors...

Honestly, with brakes that powerful in an A-body I wouldn't even bother running a power booster. I've had manual front discs on my Duster forever and never wished I had power assist.

Just convert to manual brakes and then you can run whatever cam you want. Power brakes on A-bodies aren't necessary and manual brakes are simpler, have much better pedal feel and are easier to modulate.

Ohh, guess that's why I haven't seen them then, I haven't messed with B and E bodies much, just A's and C's lol

The Dr. Diff kit comes with slider-type calipers, that's also the type on my car currently. It's weird Hawk sells the pin-type ones it since it seems that type is less common on the popular A/B/E-body Mopar muscle cars.

Are those for pin-type or slider-type calipers? The second image with the diagram looks like it's for pin-type...

I searched Hawk's website and can't find anything for classic Mopars. I know EBC sells pads for them though. Dr. Diff includes pads in their kit I might send an email and ask what brand/type they are. Another note, the piston area of the 2-piston Cobra calipers is almost half of the 2.75"...

Not to bring back a (somewhat) old thread but I'm glad I saw this post. My '70 Duster has 10.95" '73-up discs and today my passenger-side caliper seized up on me; drove 8 minutes to the grocery store to pick up some things and when I got there I could smell burning brakes and smoke was coming...

If you have access to ones in good condition for good prices I'd definitely go for it. In fact IIRC the 1997-later 8.25 has stronger axles with more splines. I really miss my XJ, it was a '93 with the 4.0L I-6 and 5-speed manual. I changed it over to 3.55s (stock manual final-drive ratio is...

It's not very common from what I've seen over the past ~12 years of doing this stuff lol, not really sure why tbh they're a dime a dozen. I don't remember offhand how the width matches up with an A-body but for sure at the very least you'd need to cut off the spring perches and weld on new ones...

I have manual brakes in my Duster and love it. In the context of classic Mopar vehicles, the only ones I'd consider keeping power brakes on would be a full-size pickup truck, a heavy B-body or most any C-body. Only thing I don't like is how much longer the pedal travel is, need to lift my foot...

I just found this thread and one thing stood out, I know for a fact I was able to remove 11" drum brakes from a 1969 8 3/4" axle housing and bolt them up with no mods to a 1990s 8 1/4" housing out of a Jeep Cherokee XJ. Only difference was the 8 1/4" housing had one less bolt on each side at...

I had this issue, figured out the hold-down piece (spring? IDK what it's called) wasn't bent enough to hold the cap on tight enough. Took it off, bent it some more on my work bench then popped it all back together, no more leaks. Only took me about 6 years to figure out lol

Good catch, I'll have to remember that! Also I'm not a big fan of slotted/drilled rotors, I bought a set of Raybestos R300 slotted rotors for my Jeep and they didn't last a couple years before destroying the brake pads and also ended up glazing pretty bad (isn't the point of slots to reduce...

I'm assuming you're trying to upgrade from the A-body 10.87" rotors? If so you'll also need the taller caliper brackets so the calipers will fit properly, in case you didn't already know... FWIW I plan to do the same to my '70 Duster (has '73-up BBP brakes) at some point.

I voted '73-up, the way I see it if he spends money on SBP parts he will eventually have to "throw it away" (or sell I guess) when he does decide to go to BBP. Brake maintenance with sliding calipers is not that bad everyone talks about it like it's a serious reason not to go with them. Makes...

Obviously the same stuff as the people who designed the factory Mustang GT... Stop really quick from high speed ;) I know I'm gonna want bigger than the factory '73-up rotors and calipers once I start doing any real road racing with high speeds.

It'll be a power booster problem if the pedal travels a bit with some force on the brakes ("good enough" for normal slow driving) but when you push the pedal hard to stop quickly it gets rock hard immediately but the brakes still aren't grabbing any harder. That what you're trying to say? lol...

Try to get the best quality master cylinder you can, preferably new (not remanufactured). RockAuto.com has a good selection I've bought a few off there with good results... Wagner is the brand that sticks in my mind but I think those are being discontinued unfortunately. I once got a reman'd...

Totally, with one of those, some offset UCA bushings or tubular UCA's for extra caster, and stiffer T-bars these cars become very comfortable at extra-legal speeds lol

True but the 16:1 ratio is nice, if you are willing to drop the $$$ a rebuilt factory box from Firm Feel makes a HUGE difference. I put a "Stage 2" box in my '70 Duster and the road feel was totally transformed. I've also seen in Mopar Action a few issues back there is now a company which...

OK good to know... You guys happen to know how much that bolt is supposed to be torqued?

AWESOME thanks guys... I'll hit up o'reilly see what they can get.

OK I'm not sure, the caliper just has a threaded hole in it. I'll try to upload a pic here...

I'm swapping '73-up big bolt pattern disc brakes into my '70 Duster and I need to know where to find the bolt that connects the brake hose to the caliper. This is the hose I'm about to order: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2145326

No sorry I've never had the chance to drive a manual drum-brake car... I'm sure others have though, hopefully they'll post on it.

I had original Kelsey-Hayes disc brakes on my '70 Duster that were manual and I liked it a lot. You definitely have to press harder than power brakes but the increased "feel" in the pedal is great. Really helps in low-traction situations (ice, etc.). I never felt like I needed more brakes...