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Ok good, just making sure... I learned the hard way that the 'parts cannon' approach (wasted money). The fuel system mods you are doing are worthwhile even if there aren't any issues currently. Definitely sounds ignition-related at this point, I wouldn't rule out the MSD box being bad either...

Have you checked ignition timing yet? Alternators only put out as much as the electrical system demands. You can run a 200-amp unit but if your electrical accessories only pull 40 amps that's all it'll ever put out. What's the voltage when running? There is more diagnosis you should be...

Thanks guys, I think I'm going to swap the carb first and go from there. I'll refer back to this thread if I still end up needing to upgrade my fuel system.

I'm pretty sure the "issue" is the carb, it's sensitive to float level and the bowls aren't very big. I've had it since 2016 and since moving from Colorado last year and having to pretty drastically richen it up for the change to sea-level air the fuel system can just barely keep up. I never...

I'd agree but this is mostly a street car and electric pumps that aren't mounted inside the fuel tank are noisy as hell. Ideally I'd run an in-tank pump and bypass the mech pump (and ditch this carb for a Holley DP) but for the time being I just want something I can add into the existing system...

I have a 750 cfm Street Demon carb on the ~450 HP 360 in my '70 Duster with a stock replacement Carter mechanical pump and stock 5/16" fuel line all the way from the tank pickup to the carb. Fuel supply seems marginal for my power level as after a second or 2 at WOT I can see my AFR slightly...

I think if that was true then people running crankcase vacuum pumps would be having that problem like crazy...?

Interesting. I listen too and stop the pump before it overfills but how does holding the handle upside down help? Does it make the stop trigger quicker?

I'm too young to know, how did the gas pumps work back in the day so this didn't happen? Or was it just another "Chrysler thing" people always had to deal with?

Alright, I've been following this thread since the beginning and at this point I don't think the dyno is doing you much good. The operator clearly doesn't know what he's doing as every run it looks like there are issues... the dead #7 plug wire, really? Checking for all 8 cylinders to be...

Intake centerline is the measurement in crankshaft degrees after top dead center on the intake stroke where the centerline of the intake cam lobe is (point of maximum lift). It is generally the cam spec used to verify that the camshaft was ground and phased correctly in relation to the...

Since you degree'd the cam and installed it straight-up (Post #46) you should be fine there. What was ignition timing for the dyno pulls? You could also try some larger metering rods to lean out the AFR a bit. Might pick up 20-40 HP with the tune but after that your small cam is definitely...

What is this "spring tool" you used, care to share a pic? Don't worry about damaging the piston, by the time you put enough force on the piston to cause a dimple (which isn't a big deal to begin with) you'd likely bend or break the stop tool itself. And you'd have to crank it pretty hard after...

13:1 cruise *seems* rich but based on my experience and what the Street Demon instructions say that's close to ideal (instructions say 13.5:1). I still think the outer ring on the harmonic balancer slipped which is why your ignition timing advance is reading so high for how it runs. I think...

Sounds like you need to verify TDC, if it's running good at 35 degrees at idle something is off. You did find the issue though, not enough timing at idle. I had it kinda backwards with the transfer slot situation, I assumed it was somehow pulling too much vacuum and thus fuel mixture at idle...

Your cam doesn't need that much initial advance, it's hardly bigger than a stock 360 4-bbl cam so I'd back it down to about 12-16 btdc and reset the idle speed. Your throttle plates are likely closed too much at idle the way it currently is. You say in the OP it's rich during cruise and lean...

I've been running the 750 Street Demon on the 450-hp 360 in my '70 Duster for about 5 years now. One thing I've learned about tuning it with a WBO2 sensor is that the instructions aren't lying when they say to target 13.5:1 AFR for cruise. That does seem on the rich side but I've tried to go...

It might work but I don't think I'd trust anything a Cavalier owner says LMAO. Mag wheel cleaner in a spray bottle is acid-based, works fantastic on cast aluminum but I want to say it's phosphoric not muriatic and it's also pre-diluted the proper and safe amount. Just need to quickly rinse...

That would be awesome, I love original old-school technical documents

Shoot, if you could remove the spiral binding and put those pages through a scanner we'd be golden. Still perfectly legible as-is although they could be rotated, easy to do for anyone who downloads the images. One tidbit of info I can add from my limited experience, don't bother with late...

I had a realization yesterday... The SD comes with anti-pullover acc. pump squirters. I have one or two regular ones I'm going to try swapping in, see if that helps richen it a hair on the top end.

I've messed with TQs in the past, they're a pain unless you can get one in perfect shape and the ones worth running were made over 45 years ago at this point. I agree it's a better design overall but they are pretty friggin complicated compared to a SD. Look at the name of this carb anyway...

Test drive went well, AFR at WOT is more where I want it in the mid-12s but up in the higher RPMs it's leaning out a tad, just about hitting 13.0:1 around 5500 RPM. I remember talking to a guy at a track day/car show combo event a couple years ago and he said specifically the Street Demon carb...

Lol every time I drive the car man... Never know what could happen, could get rear-ended by some idiot or spring a fuel leak that catches fire

Update... I took the carb off and pulled it apart for the eleventy-billionth time lol. Blew out the secondary metering passages backwards with carb cleaner but didn't see any junk come out so I swapped the #88 secondary jets for #92s, cleaned it all and put it back together. I also pulled the...

I'm tuning for around the AFR reading that gave me max power when I lived in CO. I do have the manual and the jetting kit for the carb, it's just a funky hybrid design that uses proprietary jets and metering rods on the primary side but the secondary jets are the same as a conventional...

I'll double check when I get to my house this evening but based off the images and info in the manual I found it's 6852M.

I found a manual for my box last night, this is correct. I'm not an electrical specialist but I imagine since the system is designed to operate on a range of supply voltages it must be regulated in a way to give the same output regardless, otherwise it would be kinda useless. The manual...

IIRC it needs at least 11.5 volts or it won't fire, had it happen before with a bad battery and no-start condition even though it would crank over. Also when I installed the system I got the matching Mallory canister coil they spec'd for that box. When the car is running and alt is charging...

Duly noted, I am running a Mallory HyFire-6A box (bought when they were still their own company back in 2008) and Summit billet electronic distributor so I would think/hope that's not an issue but I'll keep an eye out for it.