Search results for query: *

Interesting theory, Mac. I'll have to take a look and test it. I've tried pretty much everything I can think of. I even removed the electronic ignition conversion from the distributor to see if it was burned out (apparently, leaving the key in the on position for extended periods of time is...

Thanks for the help. Yes, the coil is the stock coil. I have heard of using a coil that is made to use with the electronic ignition kit that I have, but the current one has worked just fine for the past 10 years or so. I wonder if I should look into the coil as the possible culprit? How...

Thanks for the input. As stated earlier, I installed a new cap and rotor, still the problem persists. As far as my methodology for testing spark from the coil? I just unplugged the coil wire from the cap while it was still plugged into the coil. I could see and hear spark coming from that...

I've had my car sitting since January, everything worked fine back then. Now, I can't get my car started. It almost wants to fire the first couple of cranks, but never actually does. After more cranking, there is no indication that it wants to even start. I'm getting good fuel, spark from...

Update: Bad battery. Tested the battery at home, was reading .6 volts. Then took the battery down to autozone, .55 volts. Replaced the battery, turns out it had a 7 year warranty, so they took 7 dollars off the new one (nice!). Hooked it up at home, started it up and no more noise. Drove...

Thanks for the advice all. I should mention that for the past several months, the cranking power seemed to be getting lower. I wish I had checked the volts on my battery before it died, oh well. I last drove the car on Friday night, seemed to drive fine. I had the heater, headlights, and...

Started hearing a new noise from my engine about a week ago (sound was intermittent, didn't always make the noise). Sounded kind of like a coffee grinder running in my engine bay. Noise was definitely coming from the right side of the engine (from in car perspective). I noticed the alternator...

I don't have a pic of the distributor and/or wiring, but here's a picture of where I mounted the ECU (just above the ballast resistor). I don't own this car anymore, so this just gives you an idea of where you could mount the box.

That's what I'm using. I've had mine for over 10 years. In fact, I used to have the kit in my Duster before I switched to a full on mopar performance electronic distributor w/ orange box. I swapped out the Petronix kit and used it on the 273 in my Dart. I think I did that about 6-7 years ago.

Petty, if you check the thread I posted, this is mentioned. The Barracuda's were the only model in '68 to have that function i.e. headlights and parking lights on together. It was a marketing thing.

Perfectly normal, that's how it supposed to be on a '68 Dart. There is a way to keep them on with the headlights though, see this thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=112080

I remember having to get to the headlamp switch on my Duster, it was a lot easier; probably because the switch was connected to the instrument panel and not the dash.

Turned out to be a pretty easy modification. The hardest part was getting to the headlamp switch behind the dash (had to unscrew the fuse box first). As you know, there's not a lot of space to squeeze your arms and hands underneath (lots of scrapes and scratches). I also had a heck of a time...

Thanks, Dan.

Dan, when you say jumper, do you mean just using an 18ga wire connecting the P and R terminals?

Has anyone done this to their '68 yet? Would appreciate photos of the headlight switch showing how to jumper it. Thanks

Does the same apply when using an electronic ignition conversion kit?

Great info, Dan. Where are you moving?

Been wanting to do this for a while on my Dart. Looks a lot better driving down the road with the PL and HL on at the same time.

I was just talking about your problem with my Dad. He said: If you bend the rod near the pivot point, i.e. near the stop, you should get a little extra play (upward movement)--bend the rod down a bit. This may or may not work, however. For example, bending the rod may move it past the...

I agree with burnt orange. If it's only reading 3/4 at the stop, I believe there is really nothing you can do to make it read full.